WM100: Arctic Endurance

WM100: Arctic Endurance from Jeremiah Lafleur on Vimeo.

J.R. Lafleur's documentary on the White Mountains 100 Bike/Foot/Ski race in Interior Alaska, an event that both of us, and many other people in and around Fairbanks, Alaska, hold very near & dear to our hearts.

J.R. grew up in Fairbanks and is a long-time bike racer and my fellow co-owner of Far North Fatbikes, and I have done the course three times - once solo & self-supported, once racing the WM100 on my fatbike, and another time on fatbikes with my good friend, Brett Parks. I also volunteered for the race it's inaugural year, in 2010, so I have been involved with it, in some fashion, all three years of it's existence.

The White Mountains 100 is unarguably the best organized race in the state of Alaska, as you can probably well see from the video.

J.R. & I filmed the 2012 race using his Sony XA-10 video camera & Nikon D3100, via snowmachine.
I'm very happy with the results and his ability to put it all together in such a captivating story.

Check out his other work on his Vimeo page and follow my progress this March as I race on my fatbike.

Winter Biking the Denali Highway

There are two stories here...
1. The photos do not speak of the difficulty.
2. The story does not speak of the beauty.

Winter Biking the Denali Highway from Josh Spice on Vimeo.

The Denali Highway is a 135 mile-long gravel road across the south side of the Alaska Range, between Cantwell and Paxson. It is 'closed' in the winter, as the state doesn't plow the road. However, local lodge owners groom it for snowmachine traffic and business, which means unless a storm has blown it shut, it's probably bike-able.

The longer daylight of March makes night riding mostly unnecessary, contrary to the rest of the Alaskan winter. 30 below temperatures meant for cold camping conditions and lots of puffy clothes... and incredibly slow, crunchy snow.

The snow was so crunchy and slow, we often had to pedal to continue moving downhill. Riding the flats was like pedaling an uphill grade. So many uphill sections had to be pushed, where as they should have been ride-able under normal conditions.
It was exhausting the entire way.

Day 1: 46 mi, Cantwell to Susitna Overlook
Day 2: 43 mi, Susitna Overlook to Maclaren Lodge
Day 3: 42 mi, Maclaren Lodge to Paxson

Type II fun at its finest.

The Return of the Prince: A Fatbike Crusade

The Crown Jester Jeremigha Lafleur, XVII of the North Hood & I, Sir Lord King Josh Spice, VIII of the Banks of Fairshire, went on a crusade to Anchorshireham, reuniting with Sir Lord Prince Jackson Attackus Gadamus, III of West Nomeingham, our fellow fat rider who has been living in his far off lands of western Alaska for the past year.
Us lads enjoyed our stay in Anchorshireham's finest quarters, owned by Captain Cook, himself, and reveled in our time with the Prince of West Nomeingham, brother to us crusading fatbikers of Fairshire & the North Hood. With fast trails & trusty, fat steeds, we traveled the coastal lands in search of glorious sunshine and its life-giving rays of joy.

We hope you enjoy the telling of our journey and share memories of reuniting with your own friends in far away places.


A tale from the voyages of Sir Lord Prince Jackson Attackus Gadamus III from Jeremiah Lafleur on Vimeo.

Wisdom from the Spice: Bear Spray

Time is never dull when J.R. is behind the camera.

Staying Safe in Bear Country: Part 1

Part one of a video series on staying safe in bear country, produced by the Alaska Public Lands Information Center in Fairbanks, Alaska.


(Produced by Alaska Explorer)

Visit their website to learn more about backcountry recreation in Alaska and here's a few more posts I've done on bear safety.

First Ascent of Fox Creek 2011: Waterfall Ice

J.R. & I headed down to the Alaska Range last Sunday for an ascent of Fox Creek. Our intentions were to get on it as early in the season as possible and although it was very well formed last year at this point, this fall has been a bit warmer, so we were a bit skeptical.
I got hammered by the waterfall when I traversed across it, but ended up staying dry thanks to the last minute decision to bring rain gear, just in case. Good thing.
Here's J.R.'s take on our very short micro-adventure...


Fox Creek from Jeremiah Lafleur on Vimeo.
A early fall climb up Fox Creek Alaska.  One would call "waterfall" climbing not Ice Climbing. Temperature was in the low thirties without a cloud in the sky.

Ueli Steck teams up with Mountain Hardwear

Creating the Ultimate Alpine Speed Climbing Kit from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.
To develop the next generation of alpine gear, Ueli Steck teamed up with Mountain Hardwear's product development team. For the past year, they've worked to create the ultimate Alpine Speed Climbing kit, a system that's not just lighter than anything available today, but designed with a simplicity and efficiency of function tailored to Steck's style.


Ueli Steck's Custom Outerwear System from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.
Mountain Hardwear collaborated with alpinist Ueli Steck to create an outerwear system allowing him to apply alpine speed climbing tactics to 8000 meter Himalayan peaks.

Thank you Ueli & MH!

They're right about the Whites

In Interior Alaska, it's common knowledge that you don't really travel INTO the White Mountains National Recreation Area on foot, when there isn't snow covering the ground. Sure, there's a few hiking trails leading in a ways, but almost no one ever steps foot off of them, due to the tussocks, wet ground, thick brush, old burn areas, etc. It's really a winter rec area.
Well, I've had this 'great' idea of connecting the three major peaks of the White Mountains (map) - Cache, Lime, & Prindle - on a hiking trip... in summer. It would involve crossing Beaver Creek and hiking about 20 miles through the previously mentioned hell to get to the higher (& drier) ground. Follow the ridgelines east, then drop down from Prindle to Nome Creek Road, off the Steese Highway. About 75 miles, so since it's off-trail and has some bad hiking conditions, let's figure 5 days. That's 15 miles per day, which should be do-able, even with bad tussocks or brush, carrying a light load.
We managed to get the 20 miles in the first day, even with a noon start time, after shuttling the vehicles. However, day two, with steep ridgelines, long unstable rock slopes, and horrendously thick brush growing on some of the same unstable rock, kept us to only 11 miles before we had a circular conversation regarding whether or not we should continue, based on how 'good' the hiking was compared to the first day, but how slow we actually traveled over it. Considering even steeper terrain to come, knowing the Rocky Mountain (Lime Peak) region was potentially too rough/rocky to travel over (meaning we'd have to hike in the valleys, i.e., brush), and, since day two was so slow, realizing we would have to cover more miles per day over rougher terrain for the next three days, the decision was obvious to make a turn south and head back to the car the next day.
We woke up with our pride, over 25 miles from the trailhead where the car was parked, overlooking the wooded, brushy creek valley below. We'd follow the creek to the winter trail, take that to a cabin for a break, then haul butt over the terrain we had already covered the first day (and back across Beaver Creek), on our way to the car. Fortunately, I've pretty much been on this exact route three times in the past two winters, while biking the White Mountains 100 route. It was really cool to see it all in the summer and know where I was the whole time.
Yeah, I'll admit, the hiking was truly terrible in some sections for miles on end, by nearly everyone's standards. But, if you can suck it up and walk the uneven, wet ground to the high country, the hiking is pretty darn good up there if you can stay above the brush. It's a circular process of convincing yourself you're hardcore, both to do trips like this and by experiencing these (what some would call) uncomfortable conditions.
Overall, there are probably better places to go on long hiking trips in the summer, but I had really been wanting to see that country in summer, after having such incredible experiences out there in winter.
They're right about the Whites, but will I go back to try and complete the route? You betcha.

Side Note:
Regarding the rock & 'almost Aron Ralston-ed' incident from the video
While hiking one particularly unstable boulder slope, I thought, 'Gee, I should turn around and get a picture of Brett walking through that.'
As I was about to turn, I heard him yell, 'Ah!'
With, 'Are you ok?' on the tip of my tongue, he screamed, 'Dude, hurry, get the F--- over here!' The big boulder that moved when he stepped on it had just slid on the rock below, trapping and pinching his entire lower leg up against an even larger boulder. I scrambled the thirty-plus feet over to him as he threw off his pack, with bottles, etc, flying out into the surrounding boulders.
He was trapped, with no way of freeing himself.
I pushed, pulled, and lifted the boulder every way I could get a purchase on it. Nothing. Not even a release in pressure. It was big and I was starting to think I wouldn't be able to move it. There had to be a way.
I have a strong ability to tell my body to do something that I think is beyond it's capabilities and, somehow, be able to do it well. I knew I had to tap into that. My hands searched for a place to lift on the rock, hopefully, near his leg. Being blocky, there wasn't much to grab.
Then, I found a knob and placed both hands on it, stacked like a rock climber's, and pushed my left knee up against them, heaving upward with my entire body and every drop of adrenaline I had left.
'You got it! Keep going,' Brett yelled. I gave it all I had. With one last, desperate, screaming push, I watched Brett, out of the corner of my eye, throw his body forward, ripping his leg from the grasp of the two behemoths.
He said I never really moved the rock, but merely released the pressure of a couple hundred pounds of earth squeezing his bones. Sitting down, he removed the torn shoe and assessed his foot. After an initial broken bone scare, he realized one or two bones were probably just bruised (we think). In a few minutes, we were moving again, but seemingly 'hitting the emergency brake,' as Brett later said, every time we walked over the big rocks.

Building the Fleet

Surly Pugsley fatbike rentals will begin by, if not before, the first snowfall of 2011.
Check out all the details at Far North Fatbikes.

Oh, Snow, how I miss you. Please come back soon...

Coal Wood Glitter: The Third Time's A Charm

I had an idea, I planned, I tried, and now I finished.

90 miles through the Alaska Range, this time with Ed Plumb & Ann Farris.
Day 1: Suntrana to Cody Creek via Healy Creek (27 mi) & 10 hrs of sleep
Day 2: Cody Creek to Edgar Creek  via the Wood River (25 mi) & 8 hrs of sleep
Day 3: Edgar Creek to McKinley Village, aka 'Glitter Gulch' (10 mi hiking & 28 mi packrafting).
          First vehicle I thumbed it to picked us up.

The Route:
About 95% of this route offers some sort of trail or path, whether it be ATV or game trails.
One 4500 ft pass and one 5400 ft pass. Lots of creek/river bed walking & thick brush (mostly alder & birch) in drainages up to 4000 feet.
The Yanert is swift glacial current, running at least 6 mph, with a top floating speed of 11 mph. It's mostly a class I-II float, with some hard & tight eddy lines that require precise paddling and a few class III bends and holes, almost all of which are avoidable.
I unintentionally danced with the Devil and ended up running two big wave trains, without a spray deck or PFD, that each led into a class III hole, but managed to stay dry & upright. Sorry Mom, but I guess I learned something from all those Roman Dial packrafting videos.

Trip Insight:
- It's a great route: walk past the old coal mines and up Healy Creek for 20-some miles, up & over Cody Pass & down Cody Creek to the Wood River, up it to Big Grizzly Creek & the pass to Edgar Creek, then follow Edgar Creek to the Yanert, float out the Yanert to Revine Creek (5 hrs) and hike back to the Parks Highway at McKinley Village. It's very straight-forward and easy to follow.
- As you can see in the video, we used the GPS a lot, but that's only because we forgot the maps in the truck. I also had a mental image burnt into my brain after two years of planning. We found that it's perfect for someone looking to 'go bigger' with their backcountry adventures, but still have some sort of path to follow and information about the route, with not too big of terrain and modest safety hazards.
- I typically don't eat that much during the day, but like a big meal at night. It replaces what I burned during the day and helps me sleep at night. But, if it's cold, windy, & wet, I need a lot more calories during the day.
- Ultralight is great, but if it's nasty weather, it may be best to either have extra time to wait it out or bring the extra food it will take (calorically) to keep on truckin'. Extra time might be nice to catch up on sleep or rest sore muscles/feet from all the mileage you probably were doing because you are going ultralight.
- I took my pack off three times each day and never sat down the first two days, until we made camp. We averaged between 2.5 & 3 mph hiking, depending on the brush intensity. Continuing to hike and not taking more than a few minute breaks was actually nicer than stopping and resting, as it kept my body in motion.
- I dipped a liter bottle in small creeks for water, without filtering, and found that every creek tastes different, depending on the rock and minerals deposited into the water. It kept me in touch with the environment in a way I've never experienced before.

The Gear:
19 lbs including boat & paddle, not including worn & consumables
Six Moon Designs Comet backpack (& 2 webbing straps to tie to packraft)
Marmot Hydrogen sleeping bag & torso size blue foam
Patagonia wool 2 zip-t & wool socks (for sleeping, in silnylon bag)
GoLite Shangri-La 3 & 6 Y-stakes (to sleep 3 people)
Ti pot, Cat stove, pot grabber, spoon, windscreen, & matches (to cook inside shelter)
Bear spray, knife, & firestarter
Rab eVent jacket & OR PacLite pants
Montbell Thermawrap Vest & Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody
Alpacka Yukon Yak (also to sleep on)
AquaBound Manta Ray paddle (also shelter support)

Gear Insight:
- Denatured alchohol is great, but up at 4500 feet on Big Grizzly Creek was the first time I've ever had problems with the cat stove. Even nestled behind some rocks, it took almost 10 lights before it stayed burning and boiled water. Every time I set the pot on the stove, it would go out. Sensitive to the wind?
- Having the liter bottle cinched to my backpack shoulder strap with an orange ski strap was fantastic. I stayed more hydrated than I ever have in my life, as the water was right there to drink and monitor how much I had or needed for the next stretch. If I was hiking along a creek, I'd dump it out and carry an empty bottle, as I could dip whenever I was thirsty.
- The Rab Latok Alpine Jacket with eVent fabric doubled as a wind & rain jacket. It was so breathable, I only took it off for one mile! While hiking into the driving rain, however, it did wet out, but conditions were pretty gnarly and I'm not disappointed, especially when I compare its performance to all the other waterproof/breathable fabrics I've used.
- We had to stop hiking the second night (in the driving rain) not because we were tired or it was late or too nasty of weather, but because my gloves were saturated and after three hours, my hands finally got too cold. Couple that with the conditions and time and it was a mighty fine opportunity to pitch the shelter and hit the hay. Take home message: bring shell gloves/mitts or a way to keep hands dry (& warm).
- The GoLite Shangri-La 3 slept all three of us with just enough space to sprawl out, except for the driving rain night, when we had to hunker in a little to keep away from the wet nylon. Plenty strong and storm-worthy.
- We slept on our packrafts, which created a huge dry area, allowing us to lay out gear and clothes next to our bags and keep it all dry. The 2011 boats are even bigger than previous models, with the long tail, and work really nicely.
- 100% humidity, being showered by dripping condensation all night, and a very wet insulated jacket couldn't wet-out my Marmot Hydrogen 30 degree down bag. While it was unsettling to see the clumpy balls of down when I got into the bag, it was completely dry by morning, while being warm all night.
- As nice as the 2011 Alpackas are to sleep on, they're equally bad to sit in. The boat has an overall narrower design, which smashed my hips to the point of pain during and after the float. Both feet were crammed in the bow, one in front of the other as there wasn't enough room to wedge them side by side. The narrow dimensions also make the boat slightly tippier side to side, compared to the previous model. However, the tail is amazing. As Roman pointed out, it completely prevents bandersnatching. If you have an old boat, send it in to Sheri and have a tail installed.
- I'm a hiker and I like to go light, so carrying 7-10 lbs of floating gear is not cool unless there's enough floating to make it worth while or the route just isn't possible without it. But, if I am going to carry a boat, etc, I'm taking the biggest boat I can, as they are so much more stable and float through skinny water better, plus being idyllically spacious. Sure, it weighs a little more, but so not as much as the whole floating gear compared to my basepack weight.
- Last trip, I carried my trekking poles the entire time. This time, I left them at home. Never once did I miss them, because in my hand, instead, was my DSLR. With my hands free, I took 1200 photos in three days and even had the camera put away for 4 hours during the driving rain and 6 hours the next day while packrafting. The DSLR allows me to get shots that are straight-up impossible to get with a point and shoot, plus the quality is far superior. And since it's in my hand all day long, it doesn't weigh down my pack.

As I learned last year when J.R. & I attempted this trip, I may be out of school, but the education continues.

The Three Poles

Eric Larsen, the first American to reach the three poles and the first person ever to do it in one year.



Some related videos:


Purchase the movie here.

and from solo explorer, Ben Saunders on his Vimeo page:

Ben Saunders - Living on Ice from Ben Saunders on Vimeo.

Weekend Fatbiking

To start off my weekend, I decided exploring the winter trail system via fatbike was #1 on the Fairbanks to do list. I was looking to get wet, muddy, and push the bike through unrideable sections, like swamps, water, etc. Perfect timing, since it rained all day and had been for the past week. The rivers and creeks in the Interior were almost at bank full stage. Excellent.

Not exactly a 'summer trail'

Muck hole 1, Josh 0

Josh 10, Muck Hole 5. I win.

After the exploring fun, I was amped to go somewhere cool. In desperate need of getting out of town for a bit, a friend and I decided to go bike the Valdez Creek Road off the Denali Highway into the Clearwater Mountains. I had never been to the end of the road  (15 mi).

Riding up from the Susitna River valley & Denali Highway

The mustache powers the single-speed.

Getting into the Clearwater Mountains

End of the Road

Mostly uphill made for a great workout and nice cruise back to the car. A full day riding bikes in the mountains.

Fatbike Creek Crossing

Riding my fatbike through one of the creeks that crosses Valdez Creek Road, off the Denali Highway.
I quickly learned deep, strong current must be treated the same as when in a canoe - go with the current as much as possible.
Treat flowing water over one foot deep (this was about two feet) like a hard eddy line.

Nat Geo Alaska-Yukon Expedition Video

National Geographic created a YouTube video of Andrew Skurka's presentation of his Alaska-Yukon Expedition at the National Geographic Society. Great presentation that provides a lot insight into this trip and one of its scale.

Skurka Stories and Photos & Final Denali Biking Video

You've got to check these out...
'Triple A': All Across the Gates
Guest Blog at Hiking in Finland
We were a Party Train on an Errand

And, the anticipated final cut of JR's Denali Park Road Biking Video is here!

Denali Spring Biking Trailer

A short trailer of the up & coming full-length mini-feature film of our annual spring bike ride on the Denali Park Road. This year on fat tires.
Filming by myself and J.R.
Video editing by J.R.

Combat Butt-Boating the Gerstle

The music makes me think if only I had brought a fully-automatic, belt-fed machine gun and got slow-motion video of me rising up out of the muddy water, firing off lead like Chuck Norris in Missing In Action...
Next time.

This shows the packraft PFD carry system, for walking in without a backpack and to avoid strapping it on or in your boat.
Enjoy the video.

Packraft Creek Surfing

How to enter swift water in a packraft and manage eddy lines, plus gain comfort with swift water.
As you'll see, it doesn't require much effort.