Stupid Light

I'm about to take off for a one-nighter hike-in, packraft-out trip into the Alaska Range and what do I come across?
An awesome blog post by Andrew Skurka about going 'Stupid Light.'

I was trying to go as simple and light as possible, and even leave behind normal things that simple & light me would usually take...
Now, I'm having second thoughts.

Here's an example of Stupid Light


Excellent stories and examples of why we should all assess what is truly 'worth it' for every trip.

Selecting a Shelter

I can't come to a logical conclusion. I can't seem to prioritize all the different aspects, features, strengths, & weaknesses of different lightweight shelters for what I like to do. Maybe if I write about it all, that will get the finer points out into a well-thought-out decision.

It would be great to use one shelter year-round, but that might be where I'm having problems deciding.
In summer, I hike, but I don't like trekking poles unless it's rough going. I feel like I walk faster without them and I like walking fast. This means, in regards to my shelter, I either get one that has it's own pole(s), I bring trekking poles, or I bring a pole in lieu of a trekking pole support, which the latter seems dumb until you remember that other shelters have integrated poles and every shelter needs some sort of vertical support. But I cannot get past seeing this as 'extra weight,' since a pole that only holds up the shelter is not a multi-purpose item and is, therefore, probably not going to make it into my pack.

If the shelter uses trekking pole support, that means it's not free-standing and needs to be staked. Not a problem in summer, something I actually prefer in summer to save weight, but definitely a potential problem in winter in Interior Alaska, where our snow is like sugar: dry & as unconsolidated as it gets. Last winter, we had to stomp down a tent space in sugar snow and let it set up for over an hour and a half before it kind of held the snow stakes and snowshoes. Then we had to let the anchors freeze into the snow for another hour or so before tightening the guy-outs. It was my GoLite Shangri-La 3 and needed six anchor points. I told myself no more non-free-standing shelters after that 30 below experience. Not in Interior Alaska, at least, where we don't usually have deep snow to work with, regardless of how unconsolidated it might be. We didn't have wind, but I had a dream that night about the wind howling down the drainage and ripping the shelter out of the snow. Could have easily happened. I don't like that - both that possibility and also non-free-standing shelters in snow. I prefer finding a protected spot and setting the free-standing tent down in it, with little need to secure it to Earth... or, at least just ensure it doesn't blow away, instead of giving the shelter all its strength from being staked out tightly.

Which leads to (heavier) free-standing shelters. The Black Diamond Firstlight is the only one I'd consider. I don't like the internal poles, as I found with the Lighthouse I used to own, but nothing else is as light and proven/time-tested. I can get past the need to crawl inside and velcro the poles to the roof. Hey, at least I'm inside and not out in the storm, pushing poles through sleeves.
The new North Face Assault 2 is similar, possibly better, but it's new, looks to be a little heavier, not quite as good of a design, and hasn't seen years of testing or perfection in design. It may be good, but goodbye Assault.
I was looking into the Hilleberg Unna & (non-free-standing) Akto, but, while free-standing, the Unna is quite a bit heavier and the Akto has gotten really poor reviews when compared to the Tarptent Scarp. The Scarp & Akto use approximately the same design, but the Scarp is much more pleasant to be in and supposedly stronger in the wind. Goodbye Akto.

While the Scarp is not free-standing, it has gotten raving reviews, many from the UK, where the wind blows like mad (one more here). That's reassuring, but I don't like that it isn't free-standing and the same weight as the Firstlight, which is free-standing. The weight of the Scarp is in the double wall, which stops all drafts from whatever wind that may blow, and the struts which help solidify the otherwise weak corners. The double wall is pretty nice when it's -20F and howling, peppering any exposed skin with spindrift of little ice pellets. But guess what? The Firstlight seals up tight, too - with one wall, not two. Twin vestibules on the Scarp are luxurious, but I don't mind cooking inside my tent, either.

Speaking of double walls, contrary to popular belief, they are supposedly only a few degrees warmer, according to the legendary Roger Caffin. Worth the weight? No. Instead of carrying weight to gain an extra 5F inside my shelter overnight, I'll pick a better spot to camp that will be warmer & more protected from the weather. Here's one point to the single wall or pyramid shelters, especially since I'm looking at solo tents and will not be benefiting from having another warm body in the tent with me to help keep it warmer (and produce more condensation on the walls). PLUS, with any shelter in the cold, you must leave the vents open to reduce condensation. Open a window in your home overnight during the winter and tell me it doesn't cool your house down. You're choosing to sleep outside in winter. It's going to be cold. Face it.
Here's another link for further reading on the double vs single-wall debate.

On the note of single walls & pyramids, the lightest, most tested, best designed, & most available in the U.S. is unmistakably the Mountain Laurel Designs Duomid. However, the STRONGEST is unquestionably the Trailstar, as it doesn't have the long sides to catch the wind. I'd probably suck it up and get the cuben fiber one, as I'd most likely only be using it in summer. Although... I've used my Shangri-La 3 in the winter with success and the Duomid would be half the weight and palatial for one! Back to the non-free-standing in snow argument, though, I don't like that. So, I guess it would be delegated to summer use, even though you can stake it down to the ground and probably seal out any spindrift, which would also kill airflow, increasing condensation inside. Strictly using it in summer, though, would be fine by me. As I said before, in the cuben version, it's half the weight of my SL3 and I could get an inner net tent for it, upping the weight to about 22 oz. Not bad for insect-free, bomber summer shelter. However, jump back to my first paragraph (& rant) about how I don't use trekking poles. Well, maybe I just need to get some really light collapsible ones and I'd be happy. They could hang out either on my pack or in my hands. I'd only bring them, though, if my shelter needed it, which is probably for certain in summer, as I honestly prefer only one thin layer of fabric above me. Roman Dial agrees, and Ryan Jordan couldn't have it otherwise.

If you are wise, you've noticed I've left out the Warmlite 2C. It's been highly recommended by a bunch of my friends who have used it, but I don't like it's poles or venting options, especially the latter since it's made of silnylon, which has no breathability. They say you can get pretty wet inside and need a towel to wipe it down. Hmm, reminds me of my old Tarptent Squall in a 35F wet snowfall. The poles are theoretically stronger than anything else available, but their thin walls are really easy to crack at the tips. Oh yeah, it's also non-free-standing, although it only needs to be pulled taught lengthwise. Fragile, poor venting, & non-free-standing? No thanks. Excellent shelter for some, but not me.

    Breathe...

So where does this leave me? I'll discuss a few remaining topics before giving you my final thoughts on shelter choice.

1. How often am I going to stop and set-up the shelter for a break? Pretty much never.
I go fast, light, and don't like to stop for long breaks, as my muscles tend to not like it. Continually in motion is better for my body. I'll opt for natural cover instead of taking the time to unpack, set-up, and re-pack the tent. This summer (2011), I did a few trips where I hiked 30 miles each day, took my pack off 0-3 times per day for no longer than 5 minutes each time, and never sat down between the time I got out of my sleeping bag and the time I set-up the tent for the night. This is my style, not everyone's, but it's important that I make this a part of my shelter decision - how big of a priority is a fast-to-pitch shelter? For me, not huge. It's another deciding factor in why I like bomber rain gear that I always wear because it's so breathable. I'd rather keep moving than stop and be protected by the shelter.

2. I strongly believe people put too much emphasis on the storm-worthiness of shelters.

Yes, it's important, especially if you're climbing mountains, but there is almost always a way to get out of the major blast of the wind or under natural shelter from falling snow, the latter of which is usually less important. Hence, more emphasis should be put on the weight, internal space, and pack size of the shelter, plus site selection to erect it. However, it all depends on where you're doing your trips. I have a buddy who lives in Nome, Alaska where he gets hammered by coastal winds every second he's outside. I agree with his opinion that enclosed tents are a must in those conditions, but in Interior Alaska, in the land of spruce forests, maybe that's not the case. Farther north, beyond treeline, yes, just like Nome.

3. Consider the style of trip you will be on: hiking, rafting, skiing, biking?

Hiking & biking, I don't bring trekking poles, but skiing I do. Rafting, I have a paddle. Here's a big difference if you need trekking poles to support your shelter. If I'm biking, space is also a huge concern, as there's not a lot of room to put stuff on a bike. Less is more, in this application, especially since winter bike trails tend to be in the woods, out of the strength of the wind.

Ok, here we go... Yes, I was able to make a decision.
Summer: MLD Trailstar in cuben fiber, 11 oz. Inner net 8 oz.
Winter: Black Diamond Firstlight, ~40 oz including guylines & post-date-with-my-scissors

The Trailstar is everything a summer shelter needs to be and nothing more. That sentence perfectly defines the exact shelter I am looking for for all seasons.
The Firstlight is the same, except it also has the simplicity of being free-standing. Lay it out, insert the poles, sleep. No need to get it taught by staking to use it. There's simplicity in design & in function, both of which are not always present or important.
In this case, they are.
Regarding it's long, unsecured walls and tendency to be thrown around, I'll sew or glue on some guy-out tabs, like on the Assault.

If someone tells me to save the money and get silnylon for the Trailstar because it's stronger, I gladly will.
And if you can persuade me that free-standing in winter isn't as important as I feel it is right now (I doubt it), I'll get a Scarp 1.

The challenge is on. 
Or, just your thoughts, experience, and wisdom on this topic would be greatly appreciated :)  Thanks!

And if anyone is interested, I spent 7 hours working on this post.

***POST-POST ADDITION & LENGTHY RESPONSE TO EXCELLENT COMMENTS BELOW (PLEASE READ THEM)***

I’ve come to a conclusion after writing & thinking all this and reading all of your blog posts, comments, and in between the lines, then reflecting that back onto the thousands of nights I’ve slept outdoors.

I want a free-standing shelter in winter. Period.

(Not in summer, though!)

So, let's get dirty...

From the triple-crowner who has hiked over 10K miles on his long-distance hiking adventures and wishes to remain unnamed, comes the best description I've read, thus far, of the Tarptent Scarp 1. He didn’t comment here, but e-mailed me a massive deluge of experience & wisdom in response to many of my original questions.

'Get a Scarp. It is the next best thing on the market right now, hands down (behind the Black Diamond Hilight & Firstlight).' 

He then went on to say, ‘For me, with gloves on at the end of the day, the last thing I want to do is deal with those grommets, buckles, Velcro, vent lifters, eight clips, and cord locks to get the ideal internal space. I don’t even want to eat at the end of long days, I just want to sleep, but I would rather eat than deal with clips and things.’

This is exactly how I feel about ALL my winter gear: shelters, clothing, bags, pads, stoves, etc. Simplicity rules all and usually low weight is synonymous with this. Therefore, I like the Black Diamond Firstlight the best.

Simply put, here's my explanation on shelter simplicity and view on the Firstlight, Warmlite 2C, and Tarptent Scarp 1:
Firstlight: a bag with two poles and a door
2C: a bag with two poles and a door and needs to be pulled tight
Scarp: a bag with a cover and three poles and two doors and needs to be pulled tight

For the sake of good discussion and learning opportunities for all, let’s address everyone’s thoughts.

______

Martin,

I don’t want to have to take the crossover poles for the Scarp. Triple-crowner said the same thing, that they're needed in high winds. If so, I’d rather have a Hilleberg Unna. Both of these options are heavier than I’d like, however. In that case, I’d rather take less shelter and deal with finding a safer spot to pitch it. Glad to hear the Scarp is bomber in apocalyptic conditions, though!

Regarding the Trailstar, I love my GL SL3 in summer & winter for its ability to be pitched tight to the ground (pretty much). The same goes with the Trailstar, except for the one side. Even in the Alaskan summer, with our raptor-sized mosquitoes, there are times when I just take a headnet to sleep in, instead of a mesh inner, when using the SL3. I would not be able to do this with the Trailstar, since it has the open 'door.' I also think I’d feel vulnerable with the open side in winter… Maybe I’m a little too soft to use tarps in winter…

Solid point about the long sides of the Duomid being vulnerable in winds. I’ve heard this before and don’t like that. A square, pentagon, or hex is much preferred to a rectangle for the same reason I’m not a fan of dual trekking pole or dual peak shelters… they have a long, vulnerable side. What about guying out the long sides of the Duomid? Would that help?

Is the Solomid big enough? I think the Cricket Tarp is probably a better shelter, ‘ey?

I have considered the Speedmid. Although, are the walls to shallow to pitch it tight to the ground, like I described above? Would that lose too much space? Seems like a great shelter for two in summer.

For solo summer use, Trailstar, Cricket Tarp, or Solomid? 

I think maybe an 11 oz cuben Trailstar is the perfect blend of space, weight, strength, and ability to use for two people, as well.

I was checking out the Khufu in relation to the Duomid and it seems a tad lighter, but have reservations regarding the overseas, translation, & currency thing. Probably not as good of customer service as just simply calling up Ron at MLD :)

Thanks for the wisdom, Martin! And thanks for following!

______

Korpi,

That’s the same boat I am and have been in for a while. Hmm, is the SL3 the best? No, but it’s great. So what is???

The Rabs are cool and I’ve also heard good things about them, but, yeah, too heavy.

Thanks, Korpi!

______

Steve,

You’re so eloquent. Perfect explanation of the Warmlites. So true, in every way.

(Everyone, please read his description below if you haven’t. Great insight from a Warmlite user.)

Yeah, I’d also laugh hysterically at the price tag on a cuben 2 or 3 X, R, or C!!!

Luc told me a few months ago I should look into making my own shelter from silnyl.

Maybe I should come up with the best tent in the world. Might have to put on some Tenacious D for that :)

The tent would, undoubtedly, be a single-skin pyramid, very similar to the cuben ones on the Arctic 1000, but maybe with a Velcro-on mosquito netting/floor bottom similar to summer-use Tarptent models, as to not waste weight in double walling. Hmm…

Thanks, Steve!

Oh yeah! A BROKEN WARMLITE POLE!!!  (scroll down on the page about half way)

______

Dave!

I think it’s funny to have hiked through the rise and, what seems to be from some people, the potentially upcoming fall of trekking poles? They’ll never go away, because they're so good in certain conditions, but it’s comical for me to look back on how revolutionary they were when I first used them and now, years later, I almost never do. Oh, how we learn and change.

What about cuben and exposure to sunlight? I’ve read that Zpacks backpacks are only good for one thru-hike because they’ll fall apart after the sun exposure. I would imagine the same is true for cuben, in general, especially when used for shelter? That makes a cuben Duomid a pretty pricey throw-away item!!!

And yes, the Hexamid is REALLY appealing at under 10 ounces for a bug-proof summer shelter!

Hexamid or the 11 oz BOMBER cuben Trailstar?

Thanks, Dave!

______

Thank you, again, to all who have helped with this selection.

I think it’s a great discussion to have, especially the collaboration of so many experienced adventurers sharing their thoughts in one place, on one topic. I hope to see more!

I was in a training today at work and we learned how collaboration via dialogue helps people learn, find truth, produce results, and strengthen relationships. I love this and it was the exact point of this post.

Keep it up, both outdoors and on the web!

Josh

Revisiting the Stove Debate

Last time I talked stoves, I addressed the total weight of different types of stoves & how efficient each was in relation to its weight.
After some lingering thoughts worked themselves into more complete arguments, I'd like to talk about total weight vs. volume, or each stove's ability to boil water and melt snow in regards to its weight. For example, what stove would be best to bring on a solo fast & light hike, a group fast & light hike, alpine climb, etc.
To keep it simple, let's just stick to isobutane.
More specifically, let's try & solve my little dilemma of whether or not I should purchase a Jetboil Sol/Sol Ti to replace my MSR Reactor.

Total Weight & Volume:
Jetboil Sol   10.5 oz, 0.8L
Jetboil Sol Ti   8.5 oz, 0.8L
MSR Reactor   19 oz, 1.7L

Weight per Volume:
Jetboil Sol   13.1 oz/L
Jetboil Sol Ti   10.6 oz/L
MSR Reactor   11.1 oz/L

The Jetboil Sol Ti has the lowest weight per capacity, followed very closely by the MSR Reactor, at only 0.5 oz more per liter.

Any deal-breaking difference between the Sol Ti and the Reactor? YES.

Difference #1: The Sol Ti has only a 0.8L pot while the Reactor has a 1.7L pot. The Sol Ti would be great for solo use and fast & light adventures, but wouldn't provide enough water in one boil for two people cooking dinner, as most of the time, you need 0.5 liters of water for a meal. The Reactor has the upper hand when you're boiling water for two people and hot drinks or melting snow. I like its larger pot for the times it is necessary. Plus, all three stoves have micro-regulators, so there should be no difference in cold weather performance in regards to gas flow (maybe there is one in cold weather regarding the following point?)

Difference #2: I do not personally know through experience how the Jetboil stoves (in general) do in the wind, but this is what Jetboil said to me in an e-mail: 'Wind can sometimes be a bit of an issue with dispersing the flame and if powerful enough, causing the flame to go out as it doesn't have direct protection against it. Other than the metal shroud that covers the bottom of the cup and attaches to the burner. Placing your hands around that area can help to reduce the winds effect on the stove.'
The major difference I see between Jetboils and the Reactor is the stove to pot contact. On Jetboils, the 'windscreen' somewhat protects the flame and there is a heat exchanger, but on the Reactor, there is no exposed flame; it uses radiant heat. The pot has 100% contact with the stove head, capturing nearly all the heat under the pot and in the heat exchanger. It works so well, you can't really warm your hands next to the stove, as so little heat escapes (I might be nitpicking if I complain about this). Which stove would work better in the wind? I think it's pretty obvious the Reactor is the windy weather king. It's certainly proved its supremacy in all the places I've used it.

(Want to make your canister stove perform better in the wind? Go here.)

So, is there a big enough difference to make me buy a Jetboil Sol Ti, especially with it being on sale right now? Nope.
I'll stick with my Reactor, which has been my workhorse for the past three years.
Thank you, MSR.

Post-Publication Addendum:
My friend, Ti, says she has found the Jetboils (or isobutane in general) to be inoperable at -20F & colder.
You just can't keep the fuel warm enough, even if stuffed in your jacket or sleeping bag all day or night.

Hendrik has some great introductory reviews at his Hiking in Finland site:
Reactor first impressions, Reactor review, & Jetboil Sol Ti

An anonymous reader asked about putting the 1.8L Jetboil Sumo pot on a Sol stove... here's what I found:

Sumo 1.8L pot: 12.5 oz
Sol Ti 0.8L pot: 6.3 oz
Sol Ti stove kit: 8.5 oz

8.5 - 6.3 = 2.2 oz for just the stove**
12.5 + 2.2 = 14.7 oz for the Sumo pot & Sol stove (4.3 oz lighter than the Reactor)

Additional advantage: the Sol stove kit and Sumo pot are purchased separately, creating a versatile stove arsenal, with two different sized pots for different types of trips, unlike the Reactor.
However, I think the additional 4.3 oz for the Reactor is worth its weight for the wind-resistance.

** When I e-mailed Jetboil about the weight of a Sumo on a Sol stove, they said, 'Your methodology would be correct in determining an approximate system weight.'

I had the opportunity to take a peek at the Soto Muka at REI in Anchorage. Seems like a sweet stove.
A customer pressurized a full 24 oz fuel bottle, requiring 84 pumps... its only drawback.
Its quite a bit lighter than all other liquid fuel stoves, though. Might be worth purchasing, especially if you're not going to see 40 below.

Ueli Steck teams up with Mountain Hardwear

Creating the Ultimate Alpine Speed Climbing Kit from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.
To develop the next generation of alpine gear, Ueli Steck teamed up with Mountain Hardwear's product development team. For the past year, they've worked to create the ultimate Alpine Speed Climbing kit, a system that's not just lighter than anything available today, but designed with a simplicity and efficiency of function tailored to Steck's style.


Ueli Steck's Custom Outerwear System from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.
Mountain Hardwear collaborated with alpinist Ueli Steck to create an outerwear system allowing him to apply alpine speed climbing tactics to 8000 meter Himalayan peaks.

Thank you Ueli & MH!

Coal Wood Glitter: The Third Time's A Charm

I had an idea, I planned, I tried, and now I finished.

90 miles through the Alaska Range, this time with Ed Plumb & Ann Farris.
Day 1: Suntrana to Cody Creek via Healy Creek (27 mi) & 10 hrs of sleep
Day 2: Cody Creek to Edgar Creek  via the Wood River (25 mi) & 8 hrs of sleep
Day 3: Edgar Creek to McKinley Village, aka 'Glitter Gulch' (10 mi hiking & 28 mi packrafting).
          First vehicle I thumbed it to picked us up.

The Route:
About 95% of this route offers some sort of trail or path, whether it be ATV or game trails.
One 4500 ft pass and one 5400 ft pass. Lots of creek/river bed walking & thick brush (mostly alder & birch) in drainages up to 4000 feet.
The Yanert is swift glacial current, running at least 6 mph, with a top floating speed of 11 mph. It's mostly a class I-II float, with some hard & tight eddy lines that require precise paddling and a few class III bends and holes, almost all of which are avoidable.
I unintentionally danced with the Devil and ended up running two big wave trains, without a spray deck or PFD, that each led into a class III hole, but managed to stay dry & upright. Sorry Mom, but I guess I learned something from all those Roman Dial packrafting videos.

Trip Insight:
- It's a great route: walk past the old coal mines and up Healy Creek for 20-some miles, up & over Cody Pass & down Cody Creek to the Wood River, up it to Big Grizzly Creek & the pass to Edgar Creek, then follow Edgar Creek to the Yanert, float out the Yanert to Revine Creek (5 hrs) and hike back to the Parks Highway at McKinley Village. It's very straight-forward and easy to follow.
- As you can see in the video, we used the GPS a lot, but that's only because we forgot the maps in the truck. I also had a mental image burnt into my brain after two years of planning. We found that it's perfect for someone looking to 'go bigger' with their backcountry adventures, but still have some sort of path to follow and information about the route, with not too big of terrain and modest safety hazards.
- I typically don't eat that much during the day, but like a big meal at night. It replaces what I burned during the day and helps me sleep at night. But, if it's cold, windy, & wet, I need a lot more calories during the day.
- Ultralight is great, but if it's nasty weather, it may be best to either have extra time to wait it out or bring the extra food it will take (calorically) to keep on truckin'. Extra time might be nice to catch up on sleep or rest sore muscles/feet from all the mileage you probably were doing because you are going ultralight.
- I took my pack off three times each day and never sat down the first two days, until we made camp. We averaged between 2.5 & 3 mph hiking, depending on the brush intensity. Continuing to hike and not taking more than a few minute breaks was actually nicer than stopping and resting, as it kept my body in motion.
- I dipped a liter bottle in small creeks for water, without filtering, and found that every creek tastes different, depending on the rock and minerals deposited into the water. It kept me in touch with the environment in a way I've never experienced before.

The Gear:
19 lbs including boat & paddle, not including worn & consumables
Six Moon Designs Comet backpack (& 2 webbing straps to tie to packraft)
Marmot Hydrogen sleeping bag & torso size blue foam
Patagonia wool 2 zip-t & wool socks (for sleeping, in silnylon bag)
GoLite Shangri-La 3 & 6 Y-stakes (to sleep 3 people)
Ti pot, Cat stove, pot grabber, spoon, windscreen, & matches (to cook inside shelter)
Bear spray, knife, & firestarter
Rab eVent jacket & OR PacLite pants
Montbell Thermawrap Vest & Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody
Alpacka Yukon Yak (also to sleep on)
AquaBound Manta Ray paddle (also shelter support)

Gear Insight:
- Denatured alchohol is great, but up at 4500 feet on Big Grizzly Creek was the first time I've ever had problems with the cat stove. Even nestled behind some rocks, it took almost 10 lights before it stayed burning and boiled water. Every time I set the pot on the stove, it would go out. Sensitive to the wind?
- Having the liter bottle cinched to my backpack shoulder strap with an orange ski strap was fantastic. I stayed more hydrated than I ever have in my life, as the water was right there to drink and monitor how much I had or needed for the next stretch. If I was hiking along a creek, I'd dump it out and carry an empty bottle, as I could dip whenever I was thirsty.
- The Rab Latok Alpine Jacket with eVent fabric doubled as a wind & rain jacket. It was so breathable, I only took it off for one mile! While hiking into the driving rain, however, it did wet out, but conditions were pretty gnarly and I'm not disappointed, especially when I compare its performance to all the other waterproof/breathable fabrics I've used.
- We had to stop hiking the second night (in the driving rain) not because we were tired or it was late or too nasty of weather, but because my gloves were saturated and after three hours, my hands finally got too cold. Couple that with the conditions and time and it was a mighty fine opportunity to pitch the shelter and hit the hay. Take home message: bring shell gloves/mitts or a way to keep hands dry (& warm).
- The GoLite Shangri-La 3 slept all three of us with just enough space to sprawl out, except for the driving rain night, when we had to hunker in a little to keep away from the wet nylon. Plenty strong and storm-worthy.
- We slept on our packrafts, which created a huge dry area, allowing us to lay out gear and clothes next to our bags and keep it all dry. The 2011 boats are even bigger than previous models, with the long tail, and work really nicely.
- 100% humidity, being showered by dripping condensation all night, and a very wet insulated jacket couldn't wet-out my Marmot Hydrogen 30 degree down bag. While it was unsettling to see the clumpy balls of down when I got into the bag, it was completely dry by morning, while being warm all night.
- As nice as the 2011 Alpackas are to sleep on, they're equally bad to sit in. The boat has an overall narrower design, which smashed my hips to the point of pain during and after the float. Both feet were crammed in the bow, one in front of the other as there wasn't enough room to wedge them side by side. The narrow dimensions also make the boat slightly tippier side to side, compared to the previous model. However, the tail is amazing. As Roman pointed out, it completely prevents bandersnatching. If you have an old boat, send it in to Sheri and have a tail installed.
- I'm a hiker and I like to go light, so carrying 7-10 lbs of floating gear is not cool unless there's enough floating to make it worth while or the route just isn't possible without it. But, if I am going to carry a boat, etc, I'm taking the biggest boat I can, as they are so much more stable and float through skinny water better, plus being idyllically spacious. Sure, it weighs a little more, but so not as much as the whole floating gear compared to my basepack weight.
- Last trip, I carried my trekking poles the entire time. This time, I left them at home. Never once did I miss them, because in my hand, instead, was my DSLR. With my hands free, I took 1200 photos in three days and even had the camera put away for 4 hours during the driving rain and 6 hours the next day while packrafting. The DSLR allows me to get shots that are straight-up impossible to get with a point and shoot, plus the quality is far superior. And since it's in my hand all day long, it doesn't weigh down my pack.

As I learned last year when J.R. & I attempted this trip, I may be out of school, but the education continues.

Ultralight stove systems: What's the lightest?

It's three-thirty in the morning and in another three hours, I have to leave to go to the first day back at work in over five weeks.
What am I doing up so late??? Making a Microsoft Excel table that determines the efficiency of ultralight backpacking stove systems using various forms of fuel, in terms of total weight and fuel consumption per liters of water boiled.
What else is there to do?!?! (I had to get this off my mind, as I've been pondering it for over a year.)

You would not be the first person to make fun of me for things like this, involving ultralight backpacking gear, but please read on.

Let me set a couple things straight right off the bat...
1. Isobutane stoves need fuel canisters, which add an extra 3 oz of metal for the canister (excluding fuel) to the weight of the stove system.
2. I used a 1 oz (weight) plastic bottle to contain denatured alcohol. That weight was added, like the canister weight.
3. The weight of a Ziploc bag to contain Esbit fuel tabs is negligible, I think. Although, a ultralight extremist once told me that everything weighs something. 'If you hold it out, let go, and it hits the ground... it weighs something.'
4. For the stoves that do not come with their own pot (Soto, cat food can, & Vargo), I used the 5 oz weight of my Evernew 0.9L titanium pot (same pot Andrew Skurka uses).

The overall weight and efficiency of ultralight stove systems: (click on table to view larger image)

Results: (if I did the calculations correctly)
What does this chart tell us? The number of liters of water boiled per the weight of the stove, pot, and fuel container, i.e., each stove system's efficiency.
Almost always, only the final weight of the stove, pot, and fuel are addressed. But isn't overall efficiency important, too?
Other gear is chosen not only for weight, but also what is the intelligent decision or the lightest, most sensible option.

In this test, neither one Esbit tab nor two Coghlan's fuel tabs were able to bring 1L of water to a rolling boil before extinguishing. The water had bubbles and was close to boiling, but not rolling.

The Vargo Triad XE & Esbit fuel tab system and cat food can system with denatured alcohol are essentially the same weight for any duration.
At about two weeks, the Jetboil Sol titanium stove system becomes lighter than the Vargo Triad XE & Esbit tab system and cat can system with alcohol.    
The cat food can with denatured alcohol boiled 1L of water in 12 minutes at 65° F ambient temperature, whereas the fuel tab system was never able to bring 1L of water to a rolling boil.

Most efficient stove system:
The JetBoil Sol Ti is the most efficient stove system (in this test), not only in liters of water boiled per 100g of fuel, but also in relation to the entire weight of the stove system, as well, although the Soto micro-regulator, cat can/alcohol, & Vargo/Esbit fuel tab combo were not far behind. The Sol Ti boils almost double the amount of water per 100g of fuel compared to the Soto, but only weighs 29% more. Even though the alcohol & Esbit tabs boil less water per weight of fuel compared to isobutane, the low weight of the 'stove' for both makes up much of the difference. The isobutane scores are brought down by the 3 oz weight of the canister needed to contain the pressurized fuel.

Lightest Stove System:
The cat food can with denatured alcohol system is the lightest, most capable stove system in the test, staying very light in all durations and boiled water better than the fuel tab system. Definitely the ultralight choice in all but extreme weather conditions (maybe).

Disclaimers:
1. I tried to select some of the newest, lightest, and best designed stove systems available, as well as the most popular or best-tested. I feel this line-up is a good representation.
2. The JetBoil Sol Ti uses a 0.8L pot, while the MSR Reactor uses a 1.7L pot. This means the Jetboil should weigh slightly more (low pot volume = lower weight) and have a lower final ratio, while the MSR should weigh slightly less for this comparison (high pot volume = higher weight) and score higher in the final ratio. What effect does this have? It would probably bring the score of the JetBoil closer to the Soto, while the MSR would be potentially slightly better than the cat food can/denatured alcohol combo.
3. There is a large difference between the performance of the stoves used in this comparison, although I do not feel that it throws off the results, but, most importantly, changes the selection of the most applicable stove for each planned trip. For example, the cat food can stove is the lightest option, but the MSR Reactor's performance is the same in 40 mph winds as it is in an enclosed room, because it uses enclosed radiant heat instead of an open flame, which can be extinguished by wind or suffer from convective heat loss. This makes the Reactor perfect for exposed alpine bivies or river campsites, but far too heavy for protected forest campsites, where a lighter stove would perform just fine. What about ambient temperature? Isobutane sputters below freezing (below 20F for stoves with micro-regulators like the Soto, JetBoil, & MSR) and denatured alcohol and Esbit tabs throw off such low heat, they struggle to boil water in cold temperatures, although they can be more successful than isobutane, especially at elevation. And then consider the usage of your stove. Are you just boiling to rehydrate meals or will you be cooking?
Not to say that efficiency is the most important factor, but sometimes simplicity is a stronger element of function than design, kind of like a single-speed bike.
There have been many times I've found myself very happy that I carried the extra couple ounces of an isobutane stove, as I did not have to mess with a denatured alcohol set-up.

I did not set out to determine which stove was best in every situation, but like my archaic Sleeping Pad Selection Guide, I wanted to determine the most appropriate stove system for different conditions and user preferences.

One other thing I figured out in this process, although not nearly as cool or in-depth...
In Alaska, you almost have to use white gas stoves in the winter, when temps plummet to 50 below. Anyone who says they've used isobutane in 'winter' in Alaska definitely hit a nice weather window in March, or they were playing just outside of Alaska, in the hills around Anchorage.
So, I decided to tackle the question of what size MSR fuel bottle should I bring on my winter trip?
The 30 oz is 'so heavy' at 7.3 oz, but the 20 oz only weighs 5.25. But I'm only going out for a couple nights... I could get away with the 11 oz bottle, at 2.8 oz in weight. Do the math.
Fuel per weight ratios favor the 30 & 11 oz sizes over the 20, with the 30 being most efficient. Bring the big daddy for a full weekend trip or a few of them for a week, but take the small guy for overnighters. At 40 below zero, you definitely want to err in favor of extra fuel!
Anyone want to buy two 20 oz MSR fuel bottles???

Oh yeah, if any of this doesn't make sense... I'm sorry, but it's 3:30 am and I have to work in a few hours :)

Season & Temperature Based Sleep System

When I'm not out with my dogs or testing things like this out, this is what I do.
It sure makes it easy for packing up each time a trip rolls around.

Winter Gear

Imagine hiking in sub-zero windchills for ten miles, then post-holing three feet deep in snowshoes for three miles through the woods, to arrive at a camp site at dark and temps dropping to -15. You're exhausted, in need of calories and your warmest clothes, almost out of water, and need to set-up camp and melt snow for cooking and hydration. So, you do all this and as you light the stove, you realize the fuel pump isn't pressurizing because it's too cold. Uh-oh. That means the stove will barely work. This is where I said, 'Well, you can fix anything by sleeping with it,' in reference to cold weather camping and how most problems are associated with the extreme temperatures. A simple warming up will often fix it. Overnight in a sleeping bag is the method.
What did I learn from this? Pressurize your fuel bottle at home, before you leave for the trip and before you can have it in your sleeping bag the first night. If it doesn't pressurize more when you use it, at least it has some residual pressure from earlier, which it shouldn't have lost.

My old school MSR G Expedition stove has been proven to dominate its prodigy, the XGK. It roared, even at -35, and coupled well with my one gallon pot. For melting snow, size is everything. Although the G (or XGK) is the most reliable multi-fuel expedition stove on the market and has been to the summit of more high elevation mountains in the world than all other stoves combined, I might still opt for my MSR Dragonfly, as it uses the same burner, has a better stove-to-pot contact surface and support, and fits inside the one gallon pot, which the G does not, as it has a rigid fuel line (which I might look into replacing it with a flexible one). [Post-trip update: I made a mylar-covered bubble wrap cover to insulate the top of the pot, to increase heating efficiency as much as possible at extreme temps.]

The homemade GSI Fairshare mug food cozy helped cook 1,000 calories of Ramen, peanut butter, and sesame oil at 30 below. I cut the handle off for a sleeker profile and insulated it with mylar-covered bubble wrap. Also, bring a plastic/lexan spoon instead of titanium or aluminum so it doesn't freeze to your lips and tongue!

I brought two methods of keeping water warm: a one liter Thermos and a Powerade bottle in a Sea-to-Summit neoprene skin inside an OR water bottle parka. The Thermos kept water warm far longer than the bottle parka combo, but the weight difference is huge (1 lb). If I wouldn't have had the Thermos, I would have had ice in a bottle by the time I got to drinking the second liter. Plus, when I did drink the water out of the Thermos, it was hot! That was quite a pick-me-up at -20, after hiking 12 miles.

Snowshoes were the only reasonable means of travel over the windswept crust covering the ridges on our route, as skis would have had little edging ability and very little grip. In most conditions, the snowshoes worked fine, but were way too heavy to walk so far in (Northern Lites would be better). When we got down to treeline, where the snow is deposited, we trudged for three miles as we post-holed three feet deep, while wearing the snowshoes.
What did I learn? There is not an all-around good method for going across and through snow. All means of snow travel have their drawbacks and one must have a variety of means to get through it all. Snowshoes were ok for the ridges, but skis would have been better (and faster!) in the deep snow. I think I might look into a more versatile ski system: boots I can walk long distances in and waxless skis with steel edges.

Knowing I'd have to strap many things to my backpack and have versatile attachment options that must work in extreme temperatures, I brought five ski straps along. They worked flawlessly doing everything from holding down my pants to prevent snow from getting inside my boots to keeping my snowshoes secure on my backpack and holding together my ski poles for supporting the shelter. Stronger than nylon webbing straps and no plastic buckle to break, plus they grip surfaces much better and never loosen.

One thing I'm on the fence with - the GoLite Shangri-La 3, pictured at left. I have nothing but great things to say about it, except that it's hard to stake out in completely unconsolidated sugar snow, which is pretty common in Alaska, especially the colder it gets. This is when it's even more important to have a shelter that's easy to set up. I might get a Stephenson's Warmlite 2R, as it just needs to be pulled tight from end to end, instead of on six corners!

Insulation for Moving & Sleeping

Here's something I've contemplated for some time and may have finally come to a conclusion...

On the Arctic 1000, they each brought 17 oz of (lightly) insulated clothes in a pullover hoody and pull-on pants, coupling that with a 24 oz two-person quilt, which obviously couldn't have been too warm.

Sleeping bags are, without question, far more efficient at trapping heat than clothes, especially per ounce of weight. (think mitten philosophy)

So, on each trip, I believe it is important to decide whether to bring insulated clothing and/or a warmer sleeping bag. Where as you can wear the clothing and not have to be in the bag (moving in cold weather, in camp, after a river swim, etc), it is far less efficient for the weight than a warmer sleeping bag. However, one must be laying or sitting in a sleeping bag to use its warmth, meaning you can't be moving and probably not doing too much around camp, as you wouldn't be able to get too close to a fire or get up to do anything if sitting in a bag.

I see this conundrum as being similar to using some sort of stove (denatured alcohol or butane) or campfires to cook. If mileage is your priority, bring the insulated clothing, as it is far more versatile and can be worn while moving. Campfires require a lot of time searching for fuel (wood) and sitting around & tending them while waiting to cook. Stoves are much more straight-forward and time-efficient, although heavier, like the clothing option.

One other thought... Have you ever put a cold-weather glove inside a mitten shell and wear that system when your hands were cold? It doesn't keep your hands nearly as warm as a mitten! I think this is similar to the potential situation of being too heavily clothed inside a sleeping bag. There is no shared warmth (without significant production of heat, i.e., exertion) between body parts and throughout the bag because clothing isolates body heat instead of sharing it with the rest of the body (like a sleeping bag), so one becomes cold, even thought they are aptly insulated.

Here's what I wrote after a trip during the summer of 2010:

Sleeping bags are not necessary for travel during summer in Alaska’s backcountry. Clothing applicable to the current weather conditions is sufficient for sleeping when combined with a light bivy bag, in the proper shelter. We used our clothing, coupled with 6.5 oz silnylon bivy bags, and slept on our inflated packrafts under a GoLite Hex 3. The packrafts fit well in the hexagonal teepee shelter, which seemingly holds heat well. We were able to sleep for a full 8+ hours, most of which was almost too warm. Being too warm can pose problematic, though, as one would become damp from sweat and then cool far too much to remain comfortable. Sleeping bags, however, provide a great amount of comfort and security, which can also be lighter and more practical than sleeping in clothing only. After wearing clothing all day, in all weather conditions, the clothing can be damp and sleep can be challenging. We found the system of bringing just enough clothes for the conditions and a slightly lighter sleeping bag than appropriate for the conditions was the most effective and lightest technique when used together, as a sleeping system. This is the same findings and methodology that many adventurers on light and extended backcountry trips have agreed upon and found to be most effective.

High mileage each day? More insulated clothing, lighter sleeping bag.

Not as mileage oriented or ounce-counting? You're on the wrong blog.

Thoughts from the Crest of the Alaska Range

On this last trip into the Alaska Range, I didn't bring a hat. A visor to shade the sun, but no hat. Not a light one, not a warm one. Instead, I used the hoods on my lightweight wool longsleeve baselayer hoody, wind jacket, insulated puff jacket, and rain jacket to keep my head warm and dry. It is super convenient because a hat needs to be either worn or stowed, while a hood is flipped on or off and is always there. Never once did I wish I had brought any sort of hat.

While I brought two trekking poles, I found myself carrying them the majority of the time and only using both for brief periods (uphill) or a specific instance, like stream crossing. In fact, they aggravated me more than anything, having to carry them for miles to have them ready if I wished, instead of stowing them in my pack. If I'm just going to pack them away, why not just leave them at home? When I did use the poles, I found one pole to be more than sufficient and actually preferable to two poles. The only time two were actually useful is when I was hiking very steep uphills and using the poles to catapult across streams. Maybe I'll just become a better hiker and guess what? My feet were already wet, so why bother trying to keep them dry? One pole. Decision made.

In heavy rains, a solid rain jacket is well worth its weight for comfort and dryness, although a super light shell that is truly waterproof and breathable can serve double duty as a shell and wind jacket, plus bug protection.

No matter what, bring two pair of wool socks. My one pair stayed wet for three days straight and neoprene river socks are not comfortable to sleep in.

Instead of bringing camp footwear, bring bread bags to slip over sleep socks to keep them dry when running out to pee in already wet shoes.

One shared sleeping bag is plenty large enough for a couple to share. I'd like to make a lightweight synthetic quilt for summer use. If sharing, use a bag rated to the temperatures you'll experience, as there is some inefficiency in sharing a bag versus zipping up and cinching down to blow hole size.

I cut the foam back support out of my GoLite Pinnacle, since I already use my light sleeping pad as back support. Turns out, it was a great idea. Weight saved and still just as comfortable.

Here's a thought... I've tried to cut nearly every single ounce off my hiking gear that is practical and still comfortable. Then, I throw in TEN POUNDS of packrafting gear. Hmmm... Maybe more thought regarding floating or crossing rivers for the route is necessary.

The denatured alcohol stove I made from a Fancy Feast cat food can boils two cups of water in five minutes or less and weighs almost nothing at 0.3 oz. Super simple and nothing to break. Thank you, Andrew Skurka!

A pair of super light long underwear bottoms is nice for sleeping and wearing if it's cold during the day and while packrafting on rainy days.

The long sleeves with thumb holes on my wool hoody worked well in keeping my hands warm in cool, damp, & windy weather, since I didn't bring gloves, either.

Loksaks are great for anything needing to stay dry, including TP, and are the lightest, reliable option.

Sharing is a great way to save weight and after having a group member lose a $100 knife and realizing I never even pulled mine out of my hipbelt pocket, it makes sense to share things between group members - like one knife.

The GoLite Hex 3 floorless shelter is great - in winds, rain, some bugs, etc. It's a little difficult to set up the hexagonal shape perfectly, but it offers a lot of interior space for spreading out gear and hanging out with the entire group in nasty weather. I've also yet to have any problems with mosquitoes in the floorless shelter, as they tend to stay up in the peak, where all the heat (and carbon dioxide concentration?) is. It can even be carefully set up with two paddles (shown above), allowing utilization of the entire area inside the shelter.

I use short Outdoor Research Flex-Tex gaiters to keep debris out of my sneakers. I see them as a necessity.

Beefy, durable trekking pants that can take abuse are so nice for bushwhacking and hiking in rocks, plus they tend to be wind resistant, coupling well with a wind jacket or double-duty light shell.

Spoons kick spork ass anyday. Period. Those teeth just don't clean up pots very well.

One large, main dry bag is all that's necessary for keeping gear dry, instead of messing with multiple bags and playing Tetris to fit them in to your backpack.

Using a superlight bivy helps keep your sleeping bag dry and allows a person to use a slightly lighter bag for the current temperatures and helps protect the sleeping bag from dirt, water, and physical abuse.

Last, but not least, nothing is better than a Nutty Bar covered in creamy peanut butter and Nutella. Not a Snickers, Whatchamacallit, or a Sindawg. Nothing.

The Education Continues...

So, the Coal, Wood, Glitter trip may not have worked out for various reasons as I'll explain below, but the time wasn't a complete flop. What JR & I learned in 4.5 days and 1500 miles of driving through Alaska is impressive, I think.
Here's my take on it all...

Before starting a big trip, do extensive research on the feasibility and safety of the route, including land ownership and activity (mining?), and talk to someone who’s done the route already and get their opinion and notes. Otherwise, do a scouting trip prior to the main trip, or just keep things simple according to what information is available.

Bikes are extremely beneficial to use for backcountry travel in nearly all mountainous environments, but they extremely complicate the trip to the point where they may not be practical for more than one night’s worth of travel, as they are very fragile and mechanically complicated. Breakages occur far too frequently for practical application of mountain bikes on extended backcountry travel, in my opinion. See Eric Parson's accounts of their Lost Coast, Wrangell Mountains, and 2010 AMWC trips, regarding the catastrophic failures they had. However, bikes were apparently built better back in the day when Roman Dial did his Hellbiking across the Alaska Range.

When going on a trip, plan for all possible types of recreation. For example, if going on a biking and packrafting trip, also bring hiking gear in case your plans change. On the attempted route, bikes proved to be impractical, but the route could have been hiked and packrafted in the time we had available. Unfortunately, we did not have quite the appropriate hiking gear to attempt the route without bikes, since we were originally planning on carrying all our gear on the bikes. This prevented the route from being accomplished, all together.

Packrafts were made for Alaskan rivers and backcountry travel. However, paddling on lakes without current for more than just a simple and short crossing is slow and strenuous, especially if there are headwinds, which is normally the case. Stick to current, mostly rivers, above class I, to make it interesting and appropriate for using a packraft.

Sleeping on packrafts allows for a simpler and more comfortable approach to packraft/raftpack camping, if executed properly. When sleeping on a packraft right side up (floating style), the raft should be inflated to 4-5 inflation bags worth of air to allow for a soft mattress and the highest amount of comfort. I used a Llama, although I am only 6' tall, and I slept very comfortably by laying inside the boat, with my head on the stern and feet propped up on the bow, almost similar to a hammock. Sleeping on the packraft upside down provides a soft, flat surface that is elevated off the ground, almost comparable to a quality cot. The raft should be deflated some (from full inflation) and lie flat on the ground when laying atop it (just soft enough to flatten out the upturned bow and stern). Remember that an inflated raft is more puncture resistant than a deflated raft used as a ground sheet. Be extremely cognizant of your campsite selection as to reduce the amount of abrasion on the raft as much as possible. Putting a sleeping pad on the floor greatly increases the thermal efficiency of the set-up and will allow more comfortable, longer lasting sleep in both raft scenarios. I could feel a significant difference between laying on the pad and off of it, where my feet happened to be. The two inflated packrafts were used inside of a GoLite Hex 3 shelter (one Llama & one Yak). Although it was tight, there was still enough room to set shoes, etc, between the rafts and have room for backpacks near the head and feet of the hexagonal shelter.

Sleeping bags are not necessary for travel during summer in Alaska’s backcountry. Clothing applicable to the current weather conditions is sufficient for sleeping when combined with a light bivy bag, in the proper shelter. We used our clothing, coupled with 6.5 oz ripstop/silnylon bivy bags, and slept on our packrafts under a GoLite Hex 3. The packrafts fit well in the hexagonal teepee shelter, which seemingly holds heat well. We were able to sleep for a full 8+ hours, most of which was almost too warm. Being too warm can pose problematic, though, as one would become damp from sweat and then cool far too much to remain comfortable. Sleeping bags, however, provide a great amount of comfort and security, which can also be lighter and more practical than sleeping in clothing only. After wearing clothing all day, in all weather conditions, the clothing can be damp and sleep can be challenging. We found the system of bringing just enough clothes for the conditions and a slightly lighter sleeping bag than appropriate for the conditions was the most effective and lightest technique when used together, as a sleeping system. This is the same findings and methodology that many adventurers on light and extended backcountry trips have agreed upon and found to be most effective.

Prior to going on an extended backcountry trip, test every piece of gear, system, and technique you will be using on the trip in a smaller-scale version of the same difficulty as the trip to be attempted. This is mandatory to evaluate the most practical and effective gear and techniques for accomplishing the goal to minimize problems and increase efficiency.

It has been commonly found that the standard u-shaped seat in packrafts puts pressure on the sciatic nerve in the hips/butt and causes legs to ‘fall asleep.’ I inflated a 2.5L platypus bag bottle and placed it in a drysack, strapped to the back/bottom of the u-shaped seat. This gave support from directly underneath my butt and decreased pressure on the sciatic nerve, completely eliminating the dead leg problem. Bottom line: I found that a flat or slightly contoured/flat seat is ten-fold more comfortable than the standard seat in packrafts and it eliminated the problem of my legs falling painfully asleep after only 45 minutes of paddling.

Sufficient rest/sleep is one of the most critical aspects of a trip to be able to perform at a competent and safe level, especially when in remote regions on a backcountry adventure.

Running a larger packraft than what is the ‘proper’ fit is very beneficial for increased flotation, stability, room, and I personally think the larger boats track better. However, one must adjust for the increased length by putting gear or an inflated dry bag under the deck in the bow or moving the seat forward and modifying the deck to compensate for the adjusted sitting position. Do this, and you'll be far better off than the standard fit model if you plan on running any larger whitewater. See Roman Dial's blog for modifications.

Being a resident of the Middle Tanana Valley in Interior Alaska, I’ve gotten used to the warm, dry weather and getting wet during a float, especially when day-boating, isn’t an issue, thus resulting in rain gear being sufficient in order to stay dry (at least to a degree). However, south of the Alaska Range (mostly around Anchorage and south onto the Kenai Peninsula), weather can often be cool and wet for days, plus much of the water is glacier-fed and cold. I’ve found this is where spray tops and dry suits would be beneficial to stay dry and comfortably warm.

Febreeze is a god-send for water shoes that go through the wet-dry process, which really can cause a nasty funk.

Denali National Park is apparently the only place in Alaska with a real population of brown or grizzly bears. I’ve seen some incredibly wild areas of Alaska, including the Kenai Peninsula, and Denali is the only place where I’ve seen a real habitation, although the salmon weren’t ‘running.’ I’d love to see otherwise, but have yet to.

An inflatable floor for the packraft is a huge advantage for running whitewater. After doing some shallow water butt-boating with and (unfortunately) without a 2.5 inch thick inflatable sleeping pad floor, I’ve come to love carrying the extra 11.5 oz for the benefits it offers. Not only does it stiffen and stabilize the boat, but it flattens the bottom of the boat and eliminates the sag created by your weight directly below the seat which can cause some serious dragging that is completely avoidable. Also, it raises you up in the boat, allowing for better vision on the water. This means a higher center of gravity, which is acceptable because it doesn’t give you the buried in the boat type feeling you get when only sitting on the stock inflatable seat. I like being up higher and feel more capable and responsive because of it. The inflatable floor principle is exactly why a flat-bottomed jet boat performs better than a v-hull in shallow water boating. Your packraft will be flatter & stiffer, with less drag & better visibility. Well worth the weight.

Fleece is awesome under a spray top, drysuit, or just rain gear for insulation. It’s soft, gives that under-the-covers type comfort, and retains its loft well, plus it’s fairly warm for its weight when layered under a waterproof layer. I’d much rather run a fleece under my spray top or drysuit than an ultralight, thin poly fill jacket, exclusively for the comfort, even if it is an ounce or two heaver. How much is that comfort worth to you? Only hiking and no boating? Then, I prefer to carry synthetic insulated jackets any day.

I took the handles off my titanium 1L pot and found it to be more user-friendly than with the handles on. The flip-out handles would often get in the way when packing and were more of a nuisance. The titanium loses heat incredibly fast and if just moving the pot from a fire or off the stove to the ground, handles are best left at home. Melting snow and pouring food, etc? Maybe think otherwise.

When trying to go fast and light, a butane stove is absolutely worth the weight for its sheer speed of use. While denatured alcohol ‘cat stoves’ are far simpler in design and fairly fast, plus super light, they are more finicky and complicated in their use, super susceptible to wind, and slower than butane, which is functionally simple in the can and burner, with not a whole lot to break or have problems with (above freezing). I like simplicity, but simplicity in function can be more important than simplicity in design, depending on the application. How often have you heard of a high-quality butane stove breaking or not working?

As a professional photographer, I know what good picture quality is and I’m quite the snob about it. I also know that a big and heavy SLR is best carried in a backpack, exactly where it can’t take photos. This is why I’ve come to love my new Sony Cybershot TX-5 because it’s waterproof and takes awesome quality photos, plus has amazing features that make it a true 2010 camera, unlike some of the other waterproofs that you’d swear were from 1998. Not only do I take way more photos with it, but at ¾” thick, I can store it in the front pocket of pants or napoleon pocket on a jacket, and also strap it to my helmet with a Gorillapod for taking 780p video while packrafting. Get one. You’ll love it.

This is what I've learned in less than one week of adventure travelling.

I may be out of school, but the education continues.