Stupid Light

I'm about to take off for a one-nighter hike-in, packraft-out trip into the Alaska Range and what do I come across?
An awesome blog post by Andrew Skurka about going 'Stupid Light.'

I was trying to go as simple and light as possible, and even leave behind normal things that simple & light me would usually take...
Now, I'm having second thoughts.

Here's an example of Stupid Light


Excellent stories and examples of why we should all assess what is truly 'worth it' for every trip.

Prior to Launch

Getting loaded up to do 450 miles on the new Salsa Fargo 3. Mostly a paved route with 110 mi of dirt in the middle. And mostly solo.

The kit pictured worked well on a seven mile ride with some gravel... except for the sandals strapped to the seatbag. They fell off twice. I'll add a cordloc to the stretch cord and I think that will solve it.

Ken went hiking with Andrew Skurka and (finally) saw the light in ultralight. I've tried with him, but he's stubborn... and morally opposed to owning too much 'new' stuff. I applaud him for that and we cheers over it, with PBR in cans.

I'm hoping to learn some stuff on the bike this week. I have 1,000 miles of riding planned this month. Yay bikes!

Ultralight stove systems: What's the lightest?

It's three-thirty in the morning and in another three hours, I have to leave to go to the first day back at work in over five weeks.
What am I doing up so late??? Making a Microsoft Excel table that determines the efficiency of ultralight backpacking stove systems using various forms of fuel, in terms of total weight and fuel consumption per liters of water boiled.
What else is there to do?!?! (I had to get this off my mind, as I've been pondering it for over a year.)

You would not be the first person to make fun of me for things like this, involving ultralight backpacking gear, but please read on.

Let me set a couple things straight right off the bat...
1. Isobutane stoves need fuel canisters, which add an extra 3 oz of metal for the canister (excluding fuel) to the weight of the stove system.
2. I used a 1 oz (weight) plastic bottle to contain denatured alcohol. That weight was added, like the canister weight.
3. The weight of a Ziploc bag to contain Esbit fuel tabs is negligible, I think. Although, a ultralight extremist once told me that everything weighs something. 'If you hold it out, let go, and it hits the ground... it weighs something.'
4. For the stoves that do not come with their own pot (Soto, cat food can, & Vargo), I used the 5 oz weight of my Evernew 0.9L titanium pot (same pot Andrew Skurka uses).

The overall weight and efficiency of ultralight stove systems: (click on table to view larger image)

Results: (if I did the calculations correctly)
What does this chart tell us? The number of liters of water boiled per the weight of the stove, pot, and fuel container, i.e., each stove system's efficiency.
Almost always, only the final weight of the stove, pot, and fuel are addressed. But isn't overall efficiency important, too?
Other gear is chosen not only for weight, but also what is the intelligent decision or the lightest, most sensible option.

In this test, neither one Esbit tab nor two Coghlan's fuel tabs were able to bring 1L of water to a rolling boil before extinguishing. The water had bubbles and was close to boiling, but not rolling.

The Vargo Triad XE & Esbit fuel tab system and cat food can system with denatured alcohol are essentially the same weight for any duration.
At about two weeks, the Jetboil Sol titanium stove system becomes lighter than the Vargo Triad XE & Esbit tab system and cat can system with alcohol.    
The cat food can with denatured alcohol boiled 1L of water in 12 minutes at 65° F ambient temperature, whereas the fuel tab system was never able to bring 1L of water to a rolling boil.

Most efficient stove system:
The JetBoil Sol Ti is the most efficient stove system (in this test), not only in liters of water boiled per 100g of fuel, but also in relation to the entire weight of the stove system, as well, although the Soto micro-regulator, cat can/alcohol, & Vargo/Esbit fuel tab combo were not far behind. The Sol Ti boils almost double the amount of water per 100g of fuel compared to the Soto, but only weighs 29% more. Even though the alcohol & Esbit tabs boil less water per weight of fuel compared to isobutane, the low weight of the 'stove' for both makes up much of the difference. The isobutane scores are brought down by the 3 oz weight of the canister needed to contain the pressurized fuel.

Lightest Stove System:
The cat food can with denatured alcohol system is the lightest, most capable stove system in the test, staying very light in all durations and boiled water better than the fuel tab system. Definitely the ultralight choice in all but extreme weather conditions (maybe).

Disclaimers:
1. I tried to select some of the newest, lightest, and best designed stove systems available, as well as the most popular or best-tested. I feel this line-up is a good representation.
2. The JetBoil Sol Ti uses a 0.8L pot, while the MSR Reactor uses a 1.7L pot. This means the Jetboil should weigh slightly more (low pot volume = lower weight) and have a lower final ratio, while the MSR should weigh slightly less for this comparison (high pot volume = higher weight) and score higher in the final ratio. What effect does this have? It would probably bring the score of the JetBoil closer to the Soto, while the MSR would be potentially slightly better than the cat food can/denatured alcohol combo.
3. There is a large difference between the performance of the stoves used in this comparison, although I do not feel that it throws off the results, but, most importantly, changes the selection of the most applicable stove for each planned trip. For example, the cat food can stove is the lightest option, but the MSR Reactor's performance is the same in 40 mph winds as it is in an enclosed room, because it uses enclosed radiant heat instead of an open flame, which can be extinguished by wind or suffer from convective heat loss. This makes the Reactor perfect for exposed alpine bivies or river campsites, but far too heavy for protected forest campsites, where a lighter stove would perform just fine. What about ambient temperature? Isobutane sputters below freezing (below 20F for stoves with micro-regulators like the Soto, JetBoil, & MSR) and denatured alcohol and Esbit tabs throw off such low heat, they struggle to boil water in cold temperatures, although they can be more successful than isobutane, especially at elevation. And then consider the usage of your stove. Are you just boiling to rehydrate meals or will you be cooking?
Not to say that efficiency is the most important factor, but sometimes simplicity is a stronger element of function than design, kind of like a single-speed bike.
There have been many times I've found myself very happy that I carried the extra couple ounces of an isobutane stove, as I did not have to mess with a denatured alcohol set-up.

I did not set out to determine which stove was best in every situation, but like my archaic Sleeping Pad Selection Guide, I wanted to determine the most appropriate stove system for different conditions and user preferences.

One other thing I figured out in this process, although not nearly as cool or in-depth...
In Alaska, you almost have to use white gas stoves in the winter, when temps plummet to 50 below. Anyone who says they've used isobutane in 'winter' in Alaska definitely hit a nice weather window in March, or they were playing just outside of Alaska, in the hills around Anchorage.
So, I decided to tackle the question of what size MSR fuel bottle should I bring on my winter trip?
The 30 oz is 'so heavy' at 7.3 oz, but the 20 oz only weighs 5.25. But I'm only going out for a couple nights... I could get away with the 11 oz bottle, at 2.8 oz in weight. Do the math.
Fuel per weight ratios favor the 30 & 11 oz sizes over the 20, with the 30 being most efficient. Bring the big daddy for a full weekend trip or a few of them for a week, but take the small guy for overnighters. At 40 below zero, you definitely want to err in favor of extra fuel!
Anyone want to buy two 20 oz MSR fuel bottles???

Oh yeah, if any of this doesn't make sense... I'm sorry, but it's 3:30 am and I have to work in a few hours :)

Nat Geo Alaska-Yukon Expedition Video

National Geographic created a YouTube video of Andrew Skurka's presentation of his Alaska-Yukon Expedition at the National Geographic Society. Great presentation that provides a lot insight into this trip and one of its scale.

Skurka Stories and Photos & Final Denali Biking Video

You've got to check these out...
'Triple A': All Across the Gates
Guest Blog at Hiking in Finland
We were a Party Train on an Errand

And, the anticipated final cut of JR's Denali Park Road Biking Video is here!

Insulation for Moving & Sleeping

Here's something I've contemplated for some time and may have finally come to a conclusion...

On the Arctic 1000, they each brought 17 oz of (lightly) insulated clothes in a pullover hoody and pull-on pants, coupling that with a 24 oz two-person quilt, which obviously couldn't have been too warm.

Sleeping bags are, without question, far more efficient at trapping heat than clothes, especially per ounce of weight. (think mitten philosophy)

So, on each trip, I believe it is important to decide whether to bring insulated clothing and/or a warmer sleeping bag. Where as you can wear the clothing and not have to be in the bag (moving in cold weather, in camp, after a river swim, etc), it is far less efficient for the weight than a warmer sleeping bag. However, one must be laying or sitting in a sleeping bag to use its warmth, meaning you can't be moving and probably not doing too much around camp, as you wouldn't be able to get too close to a fire or get up to do anything if sitting in a bag.

I see this conundrum as being similar to using some sort of stove (denatured alcohol or butane) or campfires to cook. If mileage is your priority, bring the insulated clothing, as it is far more versatile and can be worn while moving. Campfires require a lot of time searching for fuel (wood) and sitting around & tending them while waiting to cook. Stoves are much more straight-forward and time-efficient, although heavier, like the clothing option.

One other thought... Have you ever put a cold-weather glove inside a mitten shell and wear that system when your hands were cold? It doesn't keep your hands nearly as warm as a mitten! I think this is similar to the potential situation of being too heavily clothed inside a sleeping bag. There is no shared warmth (without significant production of heat, i.e., exertion) between body parts and throughout the bag because clothing isolates body heat instead of sharing it with the rest of the body (like a sleeping bag), so one becomes cold, even thought they are aptly insulated.

Here's what I wrote after a trip during the summer of 2010:

Sleeping bags are not necessary for travel during summer in Alaska’s backcountry. Clothing applicable to the current weather conditions is sufficient for sleeping when combined with a light bivy bag, in the proper shelter. We used our clothing, coupled with 6.5 oz silnylon bivy bags, and slept on our inflated packrafts under a GoLite Hex 3. The packrafts fit well in the hexagonal teepee shelter, which seemingly holds heat well. We were able to sleep for a full 8+ hours, most of which was almost too warm. Being too warm can pose problematic, though, as one would become damp from sweat and then cool far too much to remain comfortable. Sleeping bags, however, provide a great amount of comfort and security, which can also be lighter and more practical than sleeping in clothing only. After wearing clothing all day, in all weather conditions, the clothing can be damp and sleep can be challenging. We found the system of bringing just enough clothes for the conditions and a slightly lighter sleeping bag than appropriate for the conditions was the most effective and lightest technique when used together, as a sleeping system. This is the same findings and methodology that many adventurers on light and extended backcountry trips have agreed upon and found to be most effective.

High mileage each day? More insulated clothing, lighter sleeping bag.

Not as mileage oriented or ounce-counting? You're on the wrong blog.

Thoughts from the Crest of the Alaska Range

On this last trip into the Alaska Range, I didn't bring a hat. A visor to shade the sun, but no hat. Not a light one, not a warm one. Instead, I used the hoods on my lightweight wool longsleeve baselayer hoody, wind jacket, insulated puff jacket, and rain jacket to keep my head warm and dry. It is super convenient because a hat needs to be either worn or stowed, while a hood is flipped on or off and is always there. Never once did I wish I had brought any sort of hat.

While I brought two trekking poles, I found myself carrying them the majority of the time and only using both for brief periods (uphill) or a specific instance, like stream crossing. In fact, they aggravated me more than anything, having to carry them for miles to have them ready if I wished, instead of stowing them in my pack. If I'm just going to pack them away, why not just leave them at home? When I did use the poles, I found one pole to be more than sufficient and actually preferable to two poles. The only time two were actually useful is when I was hiking very steep uphills and using the poles to catapult across streams. Maybe I'll just become a better hiker and guess what? My feet were already wet, so why bother trying to keep them dry? One pole. Decision made.

In heavy rains, a solid rain jacket is well worth its weight for comfort and dryness, although a super light shell that is truly waterproof and breathable can serve double duty as a shell and wind jacket, plus bug protection.

No matter what, bring two pair of wool socks. My one pair stayed wet for three days straight and neoprene river socks are not comfortable to sleep in.

Instead of bringing camp footwear, bring bread bags to slip over sleep socks to keep them dry when running out to pee in already wet shoes.

One shared sleeping bag is plenty large enough for a couple to share. I'd like to make a lightweight synthetic quilt for summer use. If sharing, use a bag rated to the temperatures you'll experience, as there is some inefficiency in sharing a bag versus zipping up and cinching down to blow hole size.

I cut the foam back support out of my GoLite Pinnacle, since I already use my light sleeping pad as back support. Turns out, it was a great idea. Weight saved and still just as comfortable.

Here's a thought... I've tried to cut nearly every single ounce off my hiking gear that is practical and still comfortable. Then, I throw in TEN POUNDS of packrafting gear. Hmmm... Maybe more thought regarding floating or crossing rivers for the route is necessary.

The denatured alcohol stove I made from a Fancy Feast cat food can boils two cups of water in five minutes or less and weighs almost nothing at 0.3 oz. Super simple and nothing to break. Thank you, Andrew Skurka!

A pair of super light long underwear bottoms is nice for sleeping and wearing if it's cold during the day and while packrafting on rainy days.

The long sleeves with thumb holes on my wool hoody worked well in keeping my hands warm in cool, damp, & windy weather, since I didn't bring gloves, either.

Loksaks are great for anything needing to stay dry, including TP, and are the lightest, reliable option.

Sharing is a great way to save weight and after having a group member lose a $100 knife and realizing I never even pulled mine out of my hipbelt pocket, it makes sense to share things between group members - like one knife.

The GoLite Hex 3 floorless shelter is great - in winds, rain, some bugs, etc. It's a little difficult to set up the hexagonal shape perfectly, but it offers a lot of interior space for spreading out gear and hanging out with the entire group in nasty weather. I've also yet to have any problems with mosquitoes in the floorless shelter, as they tend to stay up in the peak, where all the heat (and carbon dioxide concentration?) is. It can even be carefully set up with two paddles (shown above), allowing utilization of the entire area inside the shelter.

I use short Outdoor Research Flex-Tex gaiters to keep debris out of my sneakers. I see them as a necessity.

Beefy, durable trekking pants that can take abuse are so nice for bushwhacking and hiking in rocks, plus they tend to be wind resistant, coupling well with a wind jacket or double-duty light shell.

Spoons kick spork ass anyday. Period. Those teeth just don't clean up pots very well.

One large, main dry bag is all that's necessary for keeping gear dry, instead of messing with multiple bags and playing Tetris to fit them in to your backpack.

Using a superlight bivy helps keep your sleeping bag dry and allows a person to use a slightly lighter bag for the current temperatures and helps protect the sleeping bag from dirt, water, and physical abuse.

Last, but not least, nothing is better than a Nutty Bar covered in creamy peanut butter and Nutella. Not a Snickers, Whatchamacallit, or a Sindawg. Nothing.

The Education Continues...

So, the Coal, Wood, Glitter trip may not have worked out for various reasons as I'll explain below, but the time wasn't a complete flop. What JR & I learned in 4.5 days and 1500 miles of driving through Alaska is impressive, I think.
Here's my take on it all...

Before starting a big trip, do extensive research on the feasibility and safety of the route, including land ownership and activity (mining?), and talk to someone who’s done the route already and get their opinion and notes. Otherwise, do a scouting trip prior to the main trip, or just keep things simple according to what information is available.

Bikes are extremely beneficial to use for backcountry travel in nearly all mountainous environments, but they extremely complicate the trip to the point where they may not be practical for more than one night’s worth of travel, as they are very fragile and mechanically complicated. Breakages occur far too frequently for practical application of mountain bikes on extended backcountry travel, in my opinion. See Eric Parson's accounts of their Lost Coast, Wrangell Mountains, and 2010 AMWC trips, regarding the catastrophic failures they had. However, bikes were apparently built better back in the day when Roman Dial did his Hellbiking across the Alaska Range.

When going on a trip, plan for all possible types of recreation. For example, if going on a biking and packrafting trip, also bring hiking gear in case your plans change. On the attempted route, bikes proved to be impractical, but the route could have been hiked and packrafted in the time we had available. Unfortunately, we did not have quite the appropriate hiking gear to attempt the route without bikes, since we were originally planning on carrying all our gear on the bikes. This prevented the route from being accomplished, all together.

Packrafts were made for Alaskan rivers and backcountry travel. However, paddling on lakes without current for more than just a simple and short crossing is slow and strenuous, especially if there are headwinds, which is normally the case. Stick to current, mostly rivers, above class I, to make it interesting and appropriate for using a packraft.

Sleeping on packrafts allows for a simpler and more comfortable approach to packraft/raftpack camping, if executed properly. When sleeping on a packraft right side up (floating style), the raft should be inflated to 4-5 inflation bags worth of air to allow for a soft mattress and the highest amount of comfort. I used a Llama, although I am only 6' tall, and I slept very comfortably by laying inside the boat, with my head on the stern and feet propped up on the bow, almost similar to a hammock. Sleeping on the packraft upside down provides a soft, flat surface that is elevated off the ground, almost comparable to a quality cot. The raft should be deflated some (from full inflation) and lie flat on the ground when laying atop it (just soft enough to flatten out the upturned bow and stern). Remember that an inflated raft is more puncture resistant than a deflated raft used as a ground sheet. Be extremely cognizant of your campsite selection as to reduce the amount of abrasion on the raft as much as possible. Putting a sleeping pad on the floor greatly increases the thermal efficiency of the set-up and will allow more comfortable, longer lasting sleep in both raft scenarios. I could feel a significant difference between laying on the pad and off of it, where my feet happened to be. The two inflated packrafts were used inside of a GoLite Hex 3 shelter (one Llama & one Yak). Although it was tight, there was still enough room to set shoes, etc, between the rafts and have room for backpacks near the head and feet of the hexagonal shelter.

Sleeping bags are not necessary for travel during summer in Alaska’s backcountry. Clothing applicable to the current weather conditions is sufficient for sleeping when combined with a light bivy bag, in the proper shelter. We used our clothing, coupled with 6.5 oz ripstop/silnylon bivy bags, and slept on our packrafts under a GoLite Hex 3. The packrafts fit well in the hexagonal teepee shelter, which seemingly holds heat well. We were able to sleep for a full 8+ hours, most of which was almost too warm. Being too warm can pose problematic, though, as one would become damp from sweat and then cool far too much to remain comfortable. Sleeping bags, however, provide a great amount of comfort and security, which can also be lighter and more practical than sleeping in clothing only. After wearing clothing all day, in all weather conditions, the clothing can be damp and sleep can be challenging. We found the system of bringing just enough clothes for the conditions and a slightly lighter sleeping bag than appropriate for the conditions was the most effective and lightest technique when used together, as a sleeping system. This is the same findings and methodology that many adventurers on light and extended backcountry trips have agreed upon and found to be most effective.

Prior to going on an extended backcountry trip, test every piece of gear, system, and technique you will be using on the trip in a smaller-scale version of the same difficulty as the trip to be attempted. This is mandatory to evaluate the most practical and effective gear and techniques for accomplishing the goal to minimize problems and increase efficiency.

It has been commonly found that the standard u-shaped seat in packrafts puts pressure on the sciatic nerve in the hips/butt and causes legs to ‘fall asleep.’ I inflated a 2.5L platypus bag bottle and placed it in a drysack, strapped to the back/bottom of the u-shaped seat. This gave support from directly underneath my butt and decreased pressure on the sciatic nerve, completely eliminating the dead leg problem. Bottom line: I found that a flat or slightly contoured/flat seat is ten-fold more comfortable than the standard seat in packrafts and it eliminated the problem of my legs falling painfully asleep after only 45 minutes of paddling.

Sufficient rest/sleep is one of the most critical aspects of a trip to be able to perform at a competent and safe level, especially when in remote regions on a backcountry adventure.

Running a larger packraft than what is the ‘proper’ fit is very beneficial for increased flotation, stability, room, and I personally think the larger boats track better. However, one must adjust for the increased length by putting gear or an inflated dry bag under the deck in the bow or moving the seat forward and modifying the deck to compensate for the adjusted sitting position. Do this, and you'll be far better off than the standard fit model if you plan on running any larger whitewater. See Roman Dial's blog for modifications.

Being a resident of the Middle Tanana Valley in Interior Alaska, I’ve gotten used to the warm, dry weather and getting wet during a float, especially when day-boating, isn’t an issue, thus resulting in rain gear being sufficient in order to stay dry (at least to a degree). However, south of the Alaska Range (mostly around Anchorage and south onto the Kenai Peninsula), weather can often be cool and wet for days, plus much of the water is glacier-fed and cold. I’ve found this is where spray tops and dry suits would be beneficial to stay dry and comfortably warm.

Febreeze is a god-send for water shoes that go through the wet-dry process, which really can cause a nasty funk.

Denali National Park is apparently the only place in Alaska with a real population of brown or grizzly bears. I’ve seen some incredibly wild areas of Alaska, including the Kenai Peninsula, and Denali is the only place where I’ve seen a real habitation, although the salmon weren’t ‘running.’ I’d love to see otherwise, but have yet to.

An inflatable floor for the packraft is a huge advantage for running whitewater. After doing some shallow water butt-boating with and (unfortunately) without a 2.5 inch thick inflatable sleeping pad floor, I’ve come to love carrying the extra 11.5 oz for the benefits it offers. Not only does it stiffen and stabilize the boat, but it flattens the bottom of the boat and eliminates the sag created by your weight directly below the seat which can cause some serious dragging that is completely avoidable. Also, it raises you up in the boat, allowing for better vision on the water. This means a higher center of gravity, which is acceptable because it doesn’t give you the buried in the boat type feeling you get when only sitting on the stock inflatable seat. I like being up higher and feel more capable and responsive because of it. The inflatable floor principle is exactly why a flat-bottomed jet boat performs better than a v-hull in shallow water boating. Your packraft will be flatter & stiffer, with less drag & better visibility. Well worth the weight.

Fleece is awesome under a spray top, drysuit, or just rain gear for insulation. It’s soft, gives that under-the-covers type comfort, and retains its loft well, plus it’s fairly warm for its weight when layered under a waterproof layer. I’d much rather run a fleece under my spray top or drysuit than an ultralight, thin poly fill jacket, exclusively for the comfort, even if it is an ounce or two heaver. How much is that comfort worth to you? Only hiking and no boating? Then, I prefer to carry synthetic insulated jackets any day.

I took the handles off my titanium 1L pot and found it to be more user-friendly than with the handles on. The flip-out handles would often get in the way when packing and were more of a nuisance. The titanium loses heat incredibly fast and if just moving the pot from a fire or off the stove to the ground, handles are best left at home. Melting snow and pouring food, etc? Maybe think otherwise.

When trying to go fast and light, a butane stove is absolutely worth the weight for its sheer speed of use. While denatured alcohol ‘cat stoves’ are far simpler in design and fairly fast, plus super light, they are more finicky and complicated in their use, super susceptible to wind, and slower than butane, which is functionally simple in the can and burner, with not a whole lot to break or have problems with (above freezing). I like simplicity, but simplicity in function can be more important than simplicity in design, depending on the application. How often have you heard of a high-quality butane stove breaking or not working?

As a professional photographer, I know what good picture quality is and I’m quite the snob about it. I also know that a big and heavy SLR is best carried in a backpack, exactly where it can’t take photos. This is why I’ve come to love my new Sony Cybershot TX-5 because it’s waterproof and takes awesome quality photos, plus has amazing features that make it a true 2010 camera, unlike some of the other waterproofs that you’d swear were from 1998. Not only do I take way more photos with it, but at ¾” thick, I can store it in the front pocket of pants or napoleon pocket on a jacket, and also strap it to my helmet with a Gorillapod for taking 780p video while packrafting. Get one. You’ll love it.

This is what I've learned in less than one week of adventure travelling.

I may be out of school, but the education continues.