I'm about to take off for a one-nighter hike-in, packraft-out trip into the Alaska Range and what do I come across?
An awesome blog post by Andrew Skurka about going 'Stupid Light.'
I was trying to go as simple and light as possible, and even leave behind normal things that simple & light me would usually take...
Now, I'm having second thoughts.
Here's an example of Stupid Light
Excellent stories and examples of why we should all assess what is truly 'worth it' for every trip.
Showing posts with label Safety. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Safety. Show all posts
2012-07-21
2012-01-05
Staying Safe in Bear Country: Part 1
Part one of a video series on staying safe in bear country, produced by the Alaska Public Lands Information Center in Fairbanks, Alaska.
(Produced by Alaska Explorer)
Visit their website to learn more about backcountry recreation in Alaska and here's a few more posts I've done on bear safety.
(Produced by Alaska Explorer)
Visit their website to learn more about backcountry recreation in Alaska and here's a few more posts I've done on bear safety.
2011-11-19
Cold, Fun, & Suffering: A Progression
Alaska has been the coldest place in the world this past week, with Fairbanks at the heart of it all.
I rode my fatbike in to work on two of the coldest days, with the coldest temperature I'm aware of riding through being -49º F.
At 10 mph travel, that's a -66º F wind chill, if the air is calm. The bridge of my nose can attest to this. Call me stupid, and I might agree.
An hour and a half to go twelve miles, mostly on bike paths or trails, with a stop at the gas station just past half-way to get some coffee.
I know what everyone is thinking... why in the hell would I ride my bike twelve miles each way, to & from work in the -40s? My mom questioned me, too, and here's what I wrote to her in an e-mail...
Things are different up here (Alaska). Downstates, people would honestly think I'm a f***ing nut-job. Here, people just think what I'm doing is crazy, not me, personally. See the difference?
Anyone who lives in Alaska is exposed to the extremes, both in terms of the people and the conditions. Mushers do incredibly long runs in all weather imaginable, from minus-60s on the Yukon River, to 0F & blowing 50 mph on the Bering Sea coast. People have been skiing, biking, climbing, running, etc, in Alaska for ages and continue to do so. Plus, if you think about the Alaska Native historical & nomadic lifestyle, it makes us all seem like a bunch of wimps.
I like to push the line in some things I do, for, if nothing else, a way to test myself and in an attempt to, as my good friend described it to me once in terms of alpine climbing, 'make myself bulletproof.' If I take opportunities to practice, which is how I look at it, when I'm out on trips, it's not the end of the world if I'm uncomfortable for a while or experience 'poor' conditions. I'll be able to shrug it off easily and say, 'I've seen worse,' with a smile. Make yourself bulletproof to, hopefully, anything you could experience, both in regards to adventures for recreation and in life, too.
Underlying everything I do is the mantra of 'be smart.' Push the line and test yourself in both what you can handle and the skills you've built, but know the limits of what is realistic and what crosses the line as either dangerous or just stupid/detrimental to your health & well-being. Honestly, I was sweating on the ride home the second day, just a little bit, even though it was at least -35F. That means I have a little wiggle room/buffer/room to spare for riding in those conditions with the clothing system I used. If something goes wrong, I have warm mittens, two puff jackets, and puff pants to put on immediately. Plus, from experience, I know that pushing a bike warms you up SUPER fast.
So, now I know that I can comfortably(?) bike for at least two hours at -45F safely. Sure, depending on conditions and location, I might need a warm sleeping bag/tent/cabin/building to go in at the end, but in a different situation (not commuting to work), I would inevitably attack it differently. If I was biking a big route through a remote area, I'd make sure I didn't sweat and think ahead for everything imaginable.
In 2010, I volunteered on the White Mountains 100 bike/ski/foot race and patrolled the 100 mile route on snowmachine, helping at checkpoints & giving assistance to racers, if necessary, but mostly just making sure everyone was ok. I got a real good look at the route and idea of what it would be like to complete it. So, after oogling over the fatbike tracks for 100 miles, I went back the next weekend and did the route solo & unsupported on my 29er. That trip gave me a lot of confidence and understanding of how fast I can go for how long. In 2011, I felt fully prepared to enter the race, and ended up cutting 13 hours off my solo time, finishing in 16 hrs 15 min on my fatbike.
I think this is a perfect example of the progression that everyone should do when attempting something extreme, in regards to their own viewpoint of their goals, interests, experience, etc. Start by exposing yourself to it a little bit, like biking at 0 or -20. Then step it up a little more, like commuting or camping in those same temps. Then, go big, once you have things figured out and are comfortable with it, if you so choose. I saw it, I tried it, I raced it. I even went out there hiking in summer this year. Now, I feel comfortable on that route in just about any conditions it could throw at me. It's all the first steps towards crazier sh*t, which is all relative and described in that manner from other, more conservative people's perspectives.
Ironically, Dave wrote similarly about this topic on his blog, this week. Please read, as his insights are noteworthy. One could also compare all this silly talk to the types of fun that alpinist Kelly Cordes wrote about a while ago.
It's important psychologically, if nothing else, to be able to get through a situation because you're seen worse, have overcome a bad situation or experience like it before, etc. All these things can completely destroy a person psychologically in the field, on a trip, or just in life. It can break you down and put you in a hole you can't climb out of alone, which is not a place I ever want to find myself, although it may be inevitable.
I tell myself, and believe, there is a point to everything like this I do, and for once, FINALLY, I may have just found my line of where the fun stops but my body keeps going. Possibly the limit of enjoyability (word?) and the continuation of capability. And, by God, does that make me happy. I've been looking for it for years.
______
For the record, please do not call me hardcore or anything of similar reference, as some people have recently. It irritates me, big time.
I'm just a dude who has an interest in doing this stuff and am just like so many other awesome people out there.
But, most importantly, there are too many people to list that have, do, and will experience far greater things and endure more pain & suffering than I have or ever will and it would be embarrassing to be referred to in terms of so many great adventurers of history & today:
HA, HS, BM, RR, RD, EP, EP, JO, LM, JL, AS, CC & here & here, too... the list goes on.
Maybe I want to be there, but I am not... yet :)
I rode my fatbike in to work on two of the coldest days, with the coldest temperature I'm aware of riding through being -49º F.
At 10 mph travel, that's a -66º F wind chill, if the air is calm. The bridge of my nose can attest to this. Call me stupid, and I might agree.
An hour and a half to go twelve miles, mostly on bike paths or trails, with a stop at the gas station just past half-way to get some coffee.
I know what everyone is thinking... why in the hell would I ride my bike twelve miles each way, to & from work in the -40s? My mom questioned me, too, and here's what I wrote to her in an e-mail...
Things are different up here (Alaska). Downstates, people would honestly think I'm a f***ing nut-job. Here, people just think what I'm doing is crazy, not me, personally. See the difference?
Anyone who lives in Alaska is exposed to the extremes, both in terms of the people and the conditions. Mushers do incredibly long runs in all weather imaginable, from minus-60s on the Yukon River, to 0F & blowing 50 mph on the Bering Sea coast. People have been skiing, biking, climbing, running, etc, in Alaska for ages and continue to do so. Plus, if you think about the Alaska Native historical & nomadic lifestyle, it makes us all seem like a bunch of wimps.
I like to push the line in some things I do, for, if nothing else, a way to test myself and in an attempt to, as my good friend described it to me once in terms of alpine climbing, 'make myself bulletproof.' If I take opportunities to practice, which is how I look at it, when I'm out on trips, it's not the end of the world if I'm uncomfortable for a while or experience 'poor' conditions. I'll be able to shrug it off easily and say, 'I've seen worse,' with a smile. Make yourself bulletproof to, hopefully, anything you could experience, both in regards to adventures for recreation and in life, too.
Underlying everything I do is the mantra of 'be smart.' Push the line and test yourself in both what you can handle and the skills you've built, but know the limits of what is realistic and what crosses the line as either dangerous or just stupid/detrimental to your health & well-being. Honestly, I was sweating on the ride home the second day, just a little bit, even though it was at least -35F. That means I have a little wiggle room/buffer/room to spare for riding in those conditions with the clothing system I used. If something goes wrong, I have warm mittens, two puff jackets, and puff pants to put on immediately. Plus, from experience, I know that pushing a bike warms you up SUPER fast.
So, now I know that I can comfortably(?) bike for at least two hours at -45F safely. Sure, depending on conditions and location, I might need a warm sleeping bag/tent/cabin/building to go in at the end, but in a different situation (not commuting to work), I would inevitably attack it differently. If I was biking a big route through a remote area, I'd make sure I didn't sweat and think ahead for everything imaginable.
In 2010, I volunteered on the White Mountains 100 bike/ski/foot race and patrolled the 100 mile route on snowmachine, helping at checkpoints & giving assistance to racers, if necessary, but mostly just making sure everyone was ok. I got a real good look at the route and idea of what it would be like to complete it. So, after oogling over the fatbike tracks for 100 miles, I went back the next weekend and did the route solo & unsupported on my 29er. That trip gave me a lot of confidence and understanding of how fast I can go for how long. In 2011, I felt fully prepared to enter the race, and ended up cutting 13 hours off my solo time, finishing in 16 hrs 15 min on my fatbike.
![]() |
| Photo by Ed Plumb, Nov 2011 |
Ironically, Dave wrote similarly about this topic on his blog, this week. Please read, as his insights are noteworthy. One could also compare all this silly talk to the types of fun that alpinist Kelly Cordes wrote about a while ago.
It's important psychologically, if nothing else, to be able to get through a situation because you're seen worse, have overcome a bad situation or experience like it before, etc. All these things can completely destroy a person psychologically in the field, on a trip, or just in life. It can break you down and put you in a hole you can't climb out of alone, which is not a place I ever want to find myself, although it may be inevitable.
I tell myself, and believe, there is a point to everything like this I do, and for once, FINALLY, I may have just found my line of where the fun stops but my body keeps going. Possibly the limit of enjoyability (word?) and the continuation of capability. And, by God, does that make me happy. I've been looking for it for years.
______
For the record, please do not call me hardcore or anything of similar reference, as some people have recently. It irritates me, big time.
I'm just a dude who has an interest in doing this stuff and am just like so many other awesome people out there.
But, most importantly, there are too many people to list that have, do, and will experience far greater things and endure more pain & suffering than I have or ever will and it would be embarrassing to be referred to in terms of so many great adventurers of history & today:
HA, HS, BM, RR, RD, EP, EP, JO, LM, JL, AS, CC & here & here, too... the list goes on.
Maybe I want to be there, but I am not... yet :)
2011-10-01
Bear Spray or Firearms? You decide.
Spurred by this article, about a man who died from the defensive gunshot his friend fired and not by the jaws of the bear attacking him, which has been floating around the internet and my e-mail inbox at work, I thought I'd give my two cents on bear safety.
It's a very heated debate if backcountry travelers should carry bear spray or a firearm for personal protection against aggressive bears.
I will not try and influence you based on my own opinion, although I think it will be very apparent, but by the information presented below on the efficacy of specific techniques for defending oneself against aggressive bears.
This is also not a how-to on bear safety in the wilderness. For that, please visit this, that, the other, & one more good one.
From USGS's Bear Spray Safety Program handout:
'People who encounter grizzlies and defend themselves with firearms suffer injury about 50% of the time. During this same period, persons defending themselves with bear spray escaped injury most of the time, and those who were injured were subjected to attacks of shorter duration and sustained less severe injuries. Canadian bear biologist Dr. Stephen Herrero reached similar conclusions on the basis of his own research, which suggests that a person's chance of incurring serious injury from a charging grizzly bear doubles when bullets are fired rather than when bear spray is used.' (source)
From Journal of Wildlife Management's Efficacy of Bear Deterrent Spray in Alaska:
A 20 year study on 146 bear spray incidents in Alaska, involving brown/grizzly, black, and polar bears.
'Red pepper spray stopped bears' undesirable behavior 92% of the time when used on brown bears, 90% for black bears, and 100% for polar bears. Of all persons carrying sprays, 98% were uninjured by bears in close-range encounters. All bear-inflicted injuries (n=3) associated with defensive spraying involved brown bears and were relatively minor (i.e., no hospitalization required).'
'No one using bear spray was injured by black bears in any behavioral mode, aggressive, food seeking, or curious.'
'No mechanical failures of spray canisters were reported...'
'Two decades of bear spray use in Alaska confirm that it is an effective bear deterrent.'
'Wind can influence bear spray's accuracy and distance; however, our data show that wind rarely affected the outcome of bear-human interactions involving bear spray, which is likely because many close encounters do not occur in open areas, but rather in dense brush or forests where wind is greatly attenuated.'
'Because some persons had to spray bears multiple times to drive bears off in 24% of instances we studied, spray conservation, and total canister volume, may be concerns. We suggest discarding bear spray when contents fall below 90% of the original amount, or when the canister is past its expiration date, generally 3-4 years from date of purchase.'
'In Alaska, bear spray was highly effective in dealing with all 3 species of North American bears...'
'...98% of persons carrying it (bear spray) were uninjured after a close encounter with bears.'
'No bear spray has ever been reported to kill a bear.'
Rick Sinott, a retired Anchorage-area biologist for the Alaska Department of Fish & Game wrote this fantastic article arguing the effectiveness of firearms in defense of bear attacks. Excellent read by someone who really knows the topic and the mentality of both sides of the argument.
More articles:
Guns don't prevent Alaska bear attacks
A shot too late: Personal experience of how a firearm was ineffective in bear defense
NOLS kids did a 'phenomenal job': The story on what happened to the group of NOLS students who were attacked by a grizzly in Alaska in the summer of 2011
My own research:
12 gauge shotgun, short barrel, extended magazine, & ammo: 8.5 lbs
Bear spray: 11 oz
While no means of protection is 100% effective, proper bear spray usage, coupled with well-practiced bear safety techniques, can help limit the number of bears that are killed due to encounters with humans, plus the injuries, and deaths, suffered by humans.
Be responsible. It's more than just your life that your actions are affecting.
Which bears are actually the most dangerous?
Check out my previous bear post for that answer, plus another article written on the same topic.
What's the one thing I've learned in 7 years of Alaskan backcountry travel all across the state?
Good luck seeing a bear. I have a hard time finding bears, much less avoiding them.
But, maybe it's me... I swear my presence is more effective than bear spray :)
It's a very heated debate if backcountry travelers should carry bear spray or a firearm for personal protection against aggressive bears.
I will not try and influence you based on my own opinion, although I think it will be very apparent, but by the information presented below on the efficacy of specific techniques for defending oneself against aggressive bears.
This is also not a how-to on bear safety in the wilderness. For that, please visit this, that, the other, & one more good one.
From USGS's Bear Spray Safety Program handout:
'People who encounter grizzlies and defend themselves with firearms suffer injury about 50% of the time. During this same period, persons defending themselves with bear spray escaped injury most of the time, and those who were injured were subjected to attacks of shorter duration and sustained less severe injuries. Canadian bear biologist Dr. Stephen Herrero reached similar conclusions on the basis of his own research, which suggests that a person's chance of incurring serious injury from a charging grizzly bear doubles when bullets are fired rather than when bear spray is used.' (source)
From Journal of Wildlife Management's Efficacy of Bear Deterrent Spray in Alaska:
A 20 year study on 146 bear spray incidents in Alaska, involving brown/grizzly, black, and polar bears.
'Red pepper spray stopped bears' undesirable behavior 92% of the time when used on brown bears, 90% for black bears, and 100% for polar bears. Of all persons carrying sprays, 98% were uninjured by bears in close-range encounters. All bear-inflicted injuries (n=3) associated with defensive spraying involved brown bears and were relatively minor (i.e., no hospitalization required).'
'No one using bear spray was injured by black bears in any behavioral mode, aggressive, food seeking, or curious.'
'No mechanical failures of spray canisters were reported...'
'Two decades of bear spray use in Alaska confirm that it is an effective bear deterrent.'
'Wind can influence bear spray's accuracy and distance; however, our data show that wind rarely affected the outcome of bear-human interactions involving bear spray, which is likely because many close encounters do not occur in open areas, but rather in dense brush or forests where wind is greatly attenuated.'
'Because some persons had to spray bears multiple times to drive bears off in 24% of instances we studied, spray conservation, and total canister volume, may be concerns. We suggest discarding bear spray when contents fall below 90% of the original amount, or when the canister is past its expiration date, generally 3-4 years from date of purchase.'
'In Alaska, bear spray was highly effective in dealing with all 3 species of North American bears...'
'...98% of persons carrying it (bear spray) were uninjured after a close encounter with bears.'
'No bear spray has ever been reported to kill a bear.'
Rick Sinott, a retired Anchorage-area biologist for the Alaska Department of Fish & Game wrote this fantastic article arguing the effectiveness of firearms in defense of bear attacks. Excellent read by someone who really knows the topic and the mentality of both sides of the argument.
More articles:
Guns don't prevent Alaska bear attacks
A shot too late: Personal experience of how a firearm was ineffective in bear defense
NOLS kids did a 'phenomenal job': The story on what happened to the group of NOLS students who were attacked by a grizzly in Alaska in the summer of 2011
My own research:
12 gauge shotgun, short barrel, extended magazine, & ammo: 8.5 lbs
Bear spray: 11 oz
While no means of protection is 100% effective, proper bear spray usage, coupled with well-practiced bear safety techniques, can help limit the number of bears that are killed due to encounters with humans, plus the injuries, and deaths, suffered by humans.
Be responsible. It's more than just your life that your actions are affecting.
Which bears are actually the most dangerous?
Check out my previous bear post for that answer, plus another article written on the same topic.
What's the one thing I've learned in 7 years of Alaskan backcountry travel all across the state?
Good luck seeing a bear. I have a hard time finding bears, much less avoiding them.
But, maybe it's me... I swear my presence is more effective than bear spray :)
2011-08-02
No Trekking Poles & The Most Expensive Firestarter in the World
![]() |
| Ascending 2,000+ ft of scree in the Eastern Brooks Range, Alaska. Bad idea, even though this section was easy. Ken Ilgunas Photo. |
1. In this photo, two trekking poles, normally used for aiding in balance while travelling over rough terrain, are stored in my backpack. I have come to realize that even though I always bring two (used mostly as the support for my shelter), I rarely even use one. But, since I need something for the shelter anyway, I might as well bring them, for there are times when they're great and if I were to injure my lower body, they would help me walk out (this has happened to a few friends). Maybe I should get some collapsible sticks.
2. My $2500 camera is being carried in my hand and was then later used as an aid in gaining traction in loose scree. I didn't want to put it away, because then I'd miss a photo. Normally, I'd have my small point-and-shoot, but I just sold that to Ken, who I was hiking with. Needless to say, I felt at a loss for a pocketable camera.
3. After a few minor scratches on the camera's magnesium body, which revealed the shiny metal below the black finish, I realized I was carrying the world's most expensive firestarter (or at least, magnesium striker). If I ever REALLY needed to start a fire and had my DSLR, I could take my knife to it and light a blaze. [This is merely hypothetical, as I did not test this.]
4. Unless you can see a safe area or right where you want to be and it's not too high up, never, ever ascend an unknown scree slope.
-The summit or ridgeline can never be seen from the base, unless it's a vertical cliff.
-The slope never looks as steep or technical as what it truly is.
-There are bound to be dangerous sections and high potential of falling/sliding to your death.
-You could become rim-rocked on a grand scale, as the entire area you climb up to could be cliffed-out in all directions.
When we reached the top, we hiked for about a mile until realizing there were cliffs above and below us in every direction. On, along, and over the ridges, down the slopes, along the creek, and back the way we came. It took us 4.5 hrs to go roughly one mile as the crow flies. About an hour of that time was spent looking at the map & GPS and deciding how we were going to get ourselves un-rim-rocked. It took so long, I did some time-lapse photography as we hemmed & hawed over our predicament.
We finally got out to a safe area with great hiking and continued on with our new route back to the car, as we no longer had time to do the 40 mile loop originally planned. And, based on what we had seen thus far, we figured we'd run into the same situation at the two passes on the original route, anyway.
![]() |
| I'm in the bottom left corner, traversing a small cliff. Again, bad idea. Ken Ilgunas Photo. |
2011-07-18
Backcountry Trip Plan
In my NPS Park Ranger job, it's my duty to make sure people are safe out in the wilderness, so I decided to compile the best backcountry trip plans, float plans, & field operations itineraries I could find, into one comprehensive document.
Thank you to Denali, Gates of the Arctic, & Wrangell-St Elias National Parks and the State of Alaska for creating such high-quality documents, but unfortunately, they weren't comprehensive enough to use for broad-scale backcountry adventures.
I hope this hits the nail on the head. Click on the link below to view.
Backcountry Trip Plan
Thank you to Denali, Gates of the Arctic, & Wrangell-St Elias National Parks and the State of Alaska for creating such high-quality documents, but unfortunately, they weren't comprehensive enough to use for broad-scale backcountry adventures.
I hope this hits the nail on the head. Click on the link below to view.
Backcountry Trip Plan
2011-07-13
Fatal Attacks by Black Bears on People
Excellent research done on attacks by American black bears (Ursus americanus) in Canada and the United States, from 1900-2009.
Fatal Attacks by American Black Bear on People: 1900-2009
Journal of Wildlife Management 75:3
'At least 63 people were killed in 59 incidents by non-captive black bear ( Ursus americanus ) during 1900–2009. Fatal black bear attacks occurred in Canada and Alaska ( n = 49) and in the lower 48 states ( n = 14). There were 3.5 times as many fatal attacks in Canada and Alaska but only 1.75 times as many black bears, and much less human contact for black bears in Canada and Alaska. There was a weak positive correlation ( r s = 0.56, P = 0.000) between the estimated size of a bear population within a given jurisdiction and the number of fatal black bear attacks. Some jurisdictions had no fatal black bear attacks but had large estimated black bear populations. Of fatal attacks, 86% (54 of 63, 1.08/yr) occurred between 1960 and 2009. There was positive linear relationship between the number of fatal black bear attacks per decade and human population size in the United States and Canada per decade ( r 2 = 0.92, b = 0.000, P = 0.001). Of fatal attacks, 91% (49 of 54) occurred on parties of 1 or 2 persons . In 38% (15 of 40) of incidents, peoples’ food or garbage probably influenced the bear being in the attack location.We judged that the bear involved acted as a predator in 88% (49 of 56) of fatal incidents. Adult ( n = 23) or subadult ( n = 10) male bears were involved in 92% (33 of 36) of fatal predatory incidents, reflecting biological and behavioral differences between male and female bears. That most fatal black bear attacks were predatory and were carried out by 1 bear shows that females with young are not the most dangerous black bears . As a result of our research agencies managing black bear can more accurately understand the risk of being killed by a black bear, and can communicate this to the public. With training, people can learn to recognize the behaviors of a bear considering them as prey and can act to deter predation.'
The take-home message:
1. 91% of fatal attacks occurred on parties of 1-2 people.
2. 88% of fatal attacks were concluded to be predatory action by the black bear.
3. 92% of fatal predatory attacks involved male black bears.
4. Female black bears with cubs are not the most dangerous black bear encounters.
Fatal Attacks by American Black Bear on People: 1900-2009
Journal of Wildlife Management 75:3
'At least 63 people were killed in 59 incidents by non-captive black bear ( Ursus americanus ) during 1900–2009. Fatal black bear attacks occurred in Canada and Alaska ( n = 49) and in the lower 48 states ( n = 14). There were 3.5 times as many fatal attacks in Canada and Alaska but only 1.75 times as many black bears, and much less human contact for black bears in Canada and Alaska. There was a weak positive correlation ( r s = 0.56, P = 0.000) between the estimated size of a bear population within a given jurisdiction and the number of fatal black bear attacks. Some jurisdictions had no fatal black bear attacks but had large estimated black bear populations. Of fatal attacks, 86% (54 of 63, 1.08/yr) occurred between 1960 and 2009. There was positive linear relationship between the number of fatal black bear attacks per decade and human population size in the United States and Canada per decade ( r 2 = 0.92, b = 0.000, P = 0.001). Of fatal attacks, 91% (49 of 54) occurred on parties of 1 or 2 persons . In 38% (15 of 40) of incidents, peoples’ food or garbage probably influenced the bear being in the attack location.We judged that the bear involved acted as a predator in 88% (49 of 56) of fatal incidents. Adult ( n = 23) or subadult ( n = 10) male bears were involved in 92% (33 of 36) of fatal predatory incidents, reflecting biological and behavioral differences between male and female bears. That most fatal black bear attacks were predatory and were carried out by 1 bear shows that females with young are not the most dangerous black bears . As a result of our research agencies managing black bear can more accurately understand the risk of being killed by a black bear, and can communicate this to the public. With training, people can learn to recognize the behaviors of a bear considering them as prey and can act to deter predation.'
The take-home message:
1. 91% of fatal attacks occurred on parties of 1-2 people.
2. 88% of fatal attacks were concluded to be predatory action by the black bear.
3. 92% of fatal predatory attacks involved male black bears.
4. Female black bears with cubs are not the most dangerous black bear encounters.
2011-06-25
A Blazin' Firestarter
Hendrik Morkel had a link in his Week in Review to a great blog post on DIY waterproof firestarter.
I decided I'd give it a shot this weekend, while stuck in Fairbanks with a bum knee and without my car.
Please see the blog post for the detailed instructions on how to make the firestarters.
Here are my photos of the process, including how to melt the wax.
It produced incredible flames (essentially a small fire on its own) for five minutes.
At seven and a half minutes, the flames extinguished and it smoldered for another 90 seconds, before disintegrating.
I wanted to try and create a real-life situation, so I soaked one starter for 15 minutes in cold water (to simulate a river crossing or dunk in one), then shook it off and was able to re-light it with one match! However, the only way this was successful was by holding it upside down so the flame and heat were contained and concentrated within the concave shape of the inverted egg carton.
Pretty easy (& cheap!) to make, they produce a small fire, are easily lit with one match even after soaking in water, and are waterproof.
Sure, birch bark might be easier to light, less bulky, and lighter weight, but it doesn't burn as long or act as a small campfire on its own.
If a person can't start a fire using one of these, there isn't going to be a fire. Probably not even a wildfire!
2011-05-05
Alaska Backcountry Adventure Planning Guide
I wrote this up at work, to leave some institutional knowledge of what I've learned so far in my time adventuring in Alaska.
This document is available for print here.
View the Backcountry Trip Plan I wrote by clicking here.
Make sure the adventure is appropriate for the person/group in the following ways:
Experience
Assess the level of the trip you are considering. Past experience provides time and opportunity to develop outdoor skills and hone your decision making process, in order to be ready for whatever conditions and situations you may encounter on a backcountry trip. Make sure your level of experience has provided these opportunities for the trip you are planning and that you are comfortable with what you may experience.
Skill
Based upon your experience, have you developed the skills necessary to complete the backcountry trip you have planned? Do you possess the knowledge and ability to perform under adverse conditions or in emergencies?
Base what is realistic to undertake or accomplish on what you know, the skills you have obtained, and past experience.
Physical ability
Are you up for the physical challenge of:
- carrying a heavy pack over rough terrain?
- paddling a canoe all day for a week straight?
- lugging around a heavy raft?
- sleeping on the ground?
- eating freeze-dried food, snacks, and sweets?
It is best to try these things and more in a controlled environment or on a preparatory trip of shorter duration and distance, before the big adventure, to see what works and what doesn’t.
Gear
Durability and performance are paramount in regards to Alaskan gear. Bring gear that is able to handle the extreme weather, physical environment, and heavy abuse that it will experience on your trip. If the weather is so bad that it breaks your shelter or renders it unusable, what will you do?
Most important in your gear, is a reliable set of waterproof jacket & pants. You must be able to stay dry in order to be comfortable and warm. Many people have become needlessly uncomfortable, hypothermic, or even died because they could not stay dry, and therefore, warm.
What we’ve all learned: 1970s-era or department store gear is probably not up to the challenge of Alaskan weather.
Financial constraints
Bush flights can be very expensive, depending on how many flights are required to get all the gear in or out and how many people are on the trip (or that can fit in the plane with all their gear). Any gear rented or purchased, or if any shuttles or transportation are required to get to or from the start or end of the trip, can escalate the trip cost quickly.
Duration & Weather
Have you ever hiked alone for a week? What about off-trail, in bear country, ‘in the middle-of-nowhere?’ How do you handle stress, decision making, and performing in uncontrollable situations? Each person’s psyche and personality plays a huge part in the outcome of the trip and will greatly influence the lasting memories of the experience.
- Can they handle being self-sufficient or any emergency that might arise?
- How about psychologically? Do they break under pressure or stress?
High winds, heavy & incessant rains, or even prolonged & intense sun, coupled with swarming mosquitoes and dangerous wildlife encounters, can create challenging psychological experiences, as well. For example, two weeks of rain can ‘ruin’ a trip for some people. Make sure your mind & gear are up for the potential pressures of time & weather.
Goals or Experience
For some, it’s about the journey, and others, the destination. For example, those who venture into the mountains throughout the year focus their trip on different things: hiking through the mountains, climbing them, summiting, skiing down, floating, photography, etc. It is good to make sure your group shares the same goals for the trip. If this is not the case, some people may have very different decision making factors or become unsatisfied with the outcome of the trip.
Region of Alaska
The five regions of Alaska will provide extremely different experiences, in regards to vegetation, recreation type, accessibility, scenery, weather, animal inhabitance, culture, etc. Use the following as a guide to what type of experience you would like to have, which will help guide you to the right destination or region of Alaska.
- Forest or open tundra? The forest offers protection from poor weather, but the tundra has more expansive views.
- Boreal forest or coastal temperate rainforest?
- Rugged mountains or lower elevation river valleys and hilly terrain?
- River float or on land-based hiking?
- Whitewater rapids or flatwater rivers and lakes?
- Trail hiking or off-trail wilderness trekking?
- Remote destination or quick & easy access?
- Is the weather important? Certain regions and seasons can have unpleasant temperatures, wind, or precipiation.
- Are you looking for specific plants, birds, or animals? Bloom, migration, or seasonal salmon runs or gatherings?
- Would you like to experience a specific culture or historical atmosphere?
Accessibility
Alaska is, more often than not, complicated in terms of accessibility to specific places or areas, and even sometimes lacking a good place to park a vehicle! How you will begin your trip or access the area is a critical part of trip planning.
How many hours, days, or miles will it take to get to your destination, whether it be driving, flying, hiking, floating, etc?
Will you…
- Put in or take out on a river or along a road?
- Fly in or out?
- Charter a flight or boat ride?
Get the Appropriate Maps
Having too many maps for a trip can make navigating challenging, as you’ll have to go back and forth between maps, but having a map that is too large of scale omits necessary detail for most trips. Find the appropriate scale for each trip.
- 1:63,360 (Alaska specific)
- 1:250,000
- National Parks Trails Illustrated map
- Create a custom map by using MapSource, TOPO! Software, or National Geographic map kiosk
Understand land ownership and use regulations, as each land agency or owner may have requirements for access or specific uses. Land ownership maps may be obtained at the Alaska Department of Natural Resources Land Sales Office.
This document is available for print here.
View the Backcountry Trip Plan I wrote by clicking here.
Your trip in Alaska will be very different than any trip in the Lower 48, as services are less developed and infrequent, trails are non-existent in many regions, the land is wilder and often very remote, help, if needed, is farther away and difficult to summon, and the amount of information available is relatively low, while the complexity may be high.
Are you ready?!?!
Planning a Trip
The methods of selecting or designing a backcountry adventure can be broken down into the following four factors:
- Where?
- What type of recreation?
- How long?
- Goal or desired experience?
Planning a Trip
The methods of selecting or designing a backcountry adventure can be broken down into the following four factors:
- Where?
- What type of recreation?
- How long?
- Goal or desired experience?
These four individual views of planning a trip could lead you to any combination of backcountry trips, but when combined, will certainly guide you to an appropriate trip, given your personal desires and constraints.
To most effectively select an appropriate adventure:
1. Determine what your goal is or the experience you would like to have on the trip. For example, let’s say it is to see
thousands of migrating caribou.
2. Establish how much time you have available. Maybe you’re in between jobs and you have a month off in the fall.
3. Select the type of recreation or methods of travel you would like to use. Ex: you’re a highly experienced canoeist.
4. Choose where would you like to go on an adventure? Do you have a specific place or region in mind? Are there
qualities of a landscape that would direct you towards a certain place or area? Let’s say you’ve always wanted to
see the Brooks Range, north of the Arctic Circle.
By answering each of the above questions individually, you determined the best trip may be a 30 day float on the Noatak River in the fall, to see thousands of caribou on their annual fall migration in the western Brooks Range. This is an excellent trip, as very few regions of Alaska or Alaskan rivers would allow 30 days of floating or in the Brooks Range, with such high potential for viewing high numbers of migrating caribou on a daily basis, as on the Noatak River. This specific trip was planned by the focused answers to each question. Changing one answer might lead to an entirely different adventure. If the cost of the trip, season, or other factors render the adventure impossible, start over and place a heavier emphasis on the other less-limiting factors that went into the creation of the adventure.
To most effectively select an appropriate adventure:
1. Determine what your goal is or the experience you would like to have on the trip. For example, let’s say it is to see
thousands of migrating caribou.
2. Establish how much time you have available. Maybe you’re in between jobs and you have a month off in the fall.
3. Select the type of recreation or methods of travel you would like to use. Ex: you’re a highly experienced canoeist.
4. Choose where would you like to go on an adventure? Do you have a specific place or region in mind? Are there
qualities of a landscape that would direct you towards a certain place or area? Let’s say you’ve always wanted to
see the Brooks Range, north of the Arctic Circle.
By answering each of the above questions individually, you determined the best trip may be a 30 day float on the Noatak River in the fall, to see thousands of caribou on their annual fall migration in the western Brooks Range. This is an excellent trip, as very few regions of Alaska or Alaskan rivers would allow 30 days of floating or in the Brooks Range, with such high potential for viewing high numbers of migrating caribou on a daily basis, as on the Noatak River. This specific trip was planned by the focused answers to each question. Changing one answer might lead to an entirely different adventure. If the cost of the trip, season, or other factors render the adventure impossible, start over and place a heavier emphasis on the other less-limiting factors that went into the creation of the adventure.
Make sure the adventure is appropriate for the person/group in the following ways:
Experience
Assess the level of the trip you are considering. Past experience provides time and opportunity to develop outdoor skills and hone your decision making process, in order to be ready for whatever conditions and situations you may encounter on a backcountry trip. Make sure your level of experience has provided these opportunities for the trip you are planning and that you are comfortable with what you may experience.
Skill
Based upon your experience, have you developed the skills necessary to complete the backcountry trip you have planned? Do you possess the knowledge and ability to perform under adverse conditions or in emergencies?
Base what is realistic to undertake or accomplish on what you know, the skills you have obtained, and past experience.
Physical ability
Are you up for the physical challenge of:
- carrying a heavy pack over rough terrain?
- paddling a canoe all day for a week straight?
- lugging around a heavy raft?
- sleeping on the ground?
- eating freeze-dried food, snacks, and sweets?
It is best to try these things and more in a controlled environment or on a preparatory trip of shorter duration and distance, before the big adventure, to see what works and what doesn’t.
Gear
Durability and performance are paramount in regards to Alaskan gear. Bring gear that is able to handle the extreme weather, physical environment, and heavy abuse that it will experience on your trip. If the weather is so bad that it breaks your shelter or renders it unusable, what will you do?
Most important in your gear, is a reliable set of waterproof jacket & pants. You must be able to stay dry in order to be comfortable and warm. Many people have become needlessly uncomfortable, hypothermic, or even died because they could not stay dry, and therefore, warm.
What we’ve all learned: 1970s-era or department store gear is probably not up to the challenge of Alaskan weather.
Financial constraints
Bush flights can be very expensive, depending on how many flights are required to get all the gear in or out and how many people are on the trip (or that can fit in the plane with all their gear). Any gear rented or purchased, or if any shuttles or transportation are required to get to or from the start or end of the trip, can escalate the trip cost quickly.
Duration & Weather
Have you ever hiked alone for a week? What about off-trail, in bear country, ‘in the middle-of-nowhere?’ How do you handle stress, decision making, and performing in uncontrollable situations? Each person’s psyche and personality plays a huge part in the outcome of the trip and will greatly influence the lasting memories of the experience.
- Can they handle being self-sufficient or any emergency that might arise?
- How about psychologically? Do they break under pressure or stress?
High winds, heavy & incessant rains, or even prolonged & intense sun, coupled with swarming mosquitoes and dangerous wildlife encounters, can create challenging psychological experiences, as well. For example, two weeks of rain can ‘ruin’ a trip for some people. Make sure your mind & gear are up for the potential pressures of time & weather.
Goals or Experience
For some, it’s about the journey, and others, the destination. For example, those who venture into the mountains throughout the year focus their trip on different things: hiking through the mountains, climbing them, summiting, skiing down, floating, photography, etc. It is good to make sure your group shares the same goals for the trip. If this is not the case, some people may have very different decision making factors or become unsatisfied with the outcome of the trip.
Region of Alaska
The five regions of Alaska will provide extremely different experiences, in regards to vegetation, recreation type, accessibility, scenery, weather, animal inhabitance, culture, etc. Use the following as a guide to what type of experience you would like to have, which will help guide you to the right destination or region of Alaska.
- Forest or open tundra? The forest offers protection from poor weather, but the tundra has more expansive views.
- Boreal forest or coastal temperate rainforest?
- Rugged mountains or lower elevation river valleys and hilly terrain?
- River float or on land-based hiking?
- Whitewater rapids or flatwater rivers and lakes?
- Trail hiking or off-trail wilderness trekking?
- Remote destination or quick & easy access?
- Is the weather important? Certain regions and seasons can have unpleasant temperatures, wind, or precipiation.
- Are you looking for specific plants, birds, or animals? Bloom, migration, or seasonal salmon runs or gatherings?
- Would you like to experience a specific culture or historical atmosphere?
Accessibility
Alaska is, more often than not, complicated in terms of accessibility to specific places or areas, and even sometimes lacking a good place to park a vehicle! How you will begin your trip or access the area is a critical part of trip planning.
How many hours, days, or miles will it take to get to your destination, whether it be driving, flying, hiking, floating, etc?
Will you…
- Put in or take out on a river or along a road?
- Fly in or out?
- Charter a flight or boat ride?
Get the Appropriate Maps
Having too many maps for a trip can make navigating challenging, as you’ll have to go back and forth between maps, but having a map that is too large of scale omits necessary detail for most trips. Find the appropriate scale for each trip.
- 1:63,360 (Alaska specific)
- 1:250,000
- National Parks Trails Illustrated map
- Create a custom map by using MapSource, TOPO! Software, or National Geographic map kiosk
Understand land ownership and use regulations, as each land agency or owner may have requirements for access or specific uses. Land ownership maps may be obtained at the Alaska Department of Natural Resources Land Sales Office.
Logistics
Assess the logistics for the entire trip. As many seasoned-Alaskans are well aware, the only thing you can plan on, is for the plan to change! Be ready for the unexpected.
Departing Fairbanks:
- One car or two? Is the start of your trip the same as the ending location? If not, how will you get back to the vehicle?
- By plane, train, boat, or tour company?
- What is the destination and how long will it take to get there?
- Will you have to sleep upon arrival? Camping or lodging?
- Boat upriver so that if something happens, you can float back down.
- Or, get flown in and hike/float back out, as to not get stranded due to weather or scheduling of the pick-up flight.
During the Trip:
- How many days will the trip take?
- What if the route or miles per day has to change? How will you alter your plan to compensate?
- Are there other pick up or pull out spots?
- Methods of emergency communication – satellite phone, radio, beacon, etc?
- Is the plan or itinerary realistic, all things considered?
Returning to Fairbanks:
- Is a shuttle of vehicles required?
- Is a pick up by an outside party necessary?
- How long will it take to return and is camping or lodging necessary?
- What about food for the return trip or after having returned?
Assess the logistics for the entire trip. As many seasoned-Alaskans are well aware, the only thing you can plan on, is for the plan to change! Be ready for the unexpected.
Departing Fairbanks:
- One car or two? Is the start of your trip the same as the ending location? If not, how will you get back to the vehicle?
- By plane, train, boat, or tour company?
- What is the destination and how long will it take to get there?
- Will you have to sleep upon arrival? Camping or lodging?
- Boat upriver so that if something happens, you can float back down.
- Or, get flown in and hike/float back out, as to not get stranded due to weather or scheduling of the pick-up flight.
During the Trip:
- How many days will the trip take?
- What if the route or miles per day has to change? How will you alter your plan to compensate?
- Are there other pick up or pull out spots?
- Methods of emergency communication – satellite phone, radio, beacon, etc?
- Is the plan or itinerary realistic, all things considered?
Returning to Fairbanks:
- Is a shuttle of vehicles required?
- Is a pick up by an outside party necessary?
- How long will it take to return and is camping or lodging necessary?
- What about food for the return trip or after having returned?
Research & Seek More Information
There is no such thing as too much information.
- How many miles per day will you hike or float?
- How steep, flat, smooth, bumpy is the terrain?
- How much will your pace change with changing conditions?
- How big are the tussocks?
- How fast does the river flow?
- Is the water clear or glacial?
- Are there good camping areas – gravel bars, dry ground, open vegetation, etc?
- How thick is the vegetation?
- When does the snow melt in spring or when is leaf-out?
- When is first frost or snow?
- When do the mosquitoes appear?
- When do the salmon run and will there be high bear concentrations? Are there seasonal animal closures?
- What are the seasonal or historic weather trends?
- What is the current weather and recent weather conditions – flooding, etc?
- Are there limiting factors to completing the trip, such as amount of gear/weight or unexpected conditions?
- What are the land use trends during that season, in both type of recreation and amount?
There is no such thing as too much information.
- How many miles per day will you hike or float?
- How steep, flat, smooth, bumpy is the terrain?
- How much will your pace change with changing conditions?
- How big are the tussocks?
- How fast does the river flow?
- Is the water clear or glacial?
- Are there good camping areas – gravel bars, dry ground, open vegetation, etc?
- How thick is the vegetation?
- When does the snow melt in spring or when is leaf-out?
- When is first frost or snow?
- When do the mosquitoes appear?
- When do the salmon run and will there be high bear concentrations? Are there seasonal animal closures?
- What are the seasonal or historic weather trends?
- What is the current weather and recent weather conditions – flooding, etc?
- Are there limiting factors to completing the trip, such as amount of gear/weight or unexpected conditions?
- What are the land use trends during that season, in both type of recreation and amount?
Safety
The most important aspect of all; paramount in every decision to be made.
- Assess gear and go through a gear checklist. Don’t forget anything, but also don’t bring too much stuff.
- Bring the appropriate and desired safety gear for the trip and also conditions and wildlife: bears – spray/gun/fencing
- Water safety requires PFDs and appropriate rescue gear, filtration/purification, & executing safe river crossings.
- On any adventure, whether it is on the road or in the backcountry, make sure to store your food in a bear-safe
The most important aspect of all; paramount in every decision to be made.
- Assess gear and go through a gear checklist. Don’t forget anything, but also don’t bring too much stuff.
- Bring the appropriate and desired safety gear for the trip and also conditions and wildlife: bears – spray/gun/fencing
- Water safety requires PFDs and appropriate rescue gear, filtration/purification, & executing safe river crossings.
- On any adventure, whether it is on the road or in the backcountry, make sure to store your food in a bear-safe
manner. Bear-resistant food containers can be rented free of charge for trips in National Parks & Preserves. Keep the
bears safe by protecting them from your food, as a bear that learns human food tastes well and is easy to acquire,
will most likely have to be destroyed. Remember, ‘A fed bear is a dead bear.’
- Airplanes: almost all pilots make safe decisions, but remember that they are under high stress and working long days
to get as many people in and out of the wilderness as they can. Make safety a priority. It’s your life in their hands.
- Set up a contingency plan for dealing with changes in the destination, recreation type, duration, transportation,
itinerary, weather, and emergencies. Having back-up plans increases flexibility and keeps pilots happy!
Steps You Can Take To Prepare Yourself:
Search for classes and training opportunities that can be taken locally, in order to gain skill and hands-on experience, plus gain local knowledge. Join clubs of your recreational interest to meet others who enjoy the outdoors. Meeting the right people is often the most difficult and most crucial step of advancing your skill, experience, and level of comfort for many types of recreation. It would also offer opportunities for many outings with more experienced enthusiasts.
Start small and work up to bigger adventures, more nights out, longer distance, etc. Go with others who are experienced and ask many questions. Research before you go, have fun, and learn from even the smallest of mistakes.
bears safe by protecting them from your food, as a bear that learns human food tastes well and is easy to acquire,
will most likely have to be destroyed. Remember, ‘A fed bear is a dead bear.’
- Airplanes: almost all pilots make safe decisions, but remember that they are under high stress and working long days
to get as many people in and out of the wilderness as they can. Make safety a priority. It’s your life in their hands.
- Set up a contingency plan for dealing with changes in the destination, recreation type, duration, transportation,
itinerary, weather, and emergencies. Having back-up plans increases flexibility and keeps pilots happy!
Steps You Can Take To Prepare Yourself:
Search for classes and training opportunities that can be taken locally, in order to gain skill and hands-on experience, plus gain local knowledge. Join clubs of your recreational interest to meet others who enjoy the outdoors. Meeting the right people is often the most difficult and most crucial step of advancing your skill, experience, and level of comfort for many types of recreation. It would also offer opportunities for many outings with more experienced enthusiasts.
Start small and work up to bigger adventures, more nights out, longer distance, etc. Go with others who are experienced and ask many questions. Research before you go, have fun, and learn from even the smallest of mistakes.
2010-02-25
Backcountry River Crossing
Here's a technical document I wrote up on backcountry river crossing, available to print by clicking here.
I hope everyone can take something from this and that some will add to it, as well.
---
River crossings can be deceptively hazardous and Alaskan rivers are unlike those in the Lower 48.
The following are some tips for crossing rivers safely.
Preparation
Running from the highlands to the sea, all rivers in Alaska can pose challenges to inexperienced and skookum backcountry travellers, alike. Unlike most places in the Lower 48, when you leave the reaches of civilization, you will find yourself without the conveniences of trails, bridges, campsites, and outhouses. Travelers are forced to either select routes within drainages or to accept the risk of crossing bodies of water without the assistance of man-made bridges. Glaciers, groundwater, and precipitation feed each river’s hunger and cause dangerously cold water temperatures. Cold immersion, the initial cold shock your body feels and the tightening of muscles, can quickly lead to hypothermia. Be aware of hypothermia signs, shivering, loss of manual dexterity and coordination, slurred speech, mental impairment, and know how to properly treat its victims by rewarming their core body temperature. Even a very shallow, swiftly flowing body of water can pack enough force to endanger the unwary. If in doubt as to whether a river is safe to cross, find an alternate route.
However, river beds are often the highways of backcountry travel and the best route available. They can provide comparatively solid, stable, and brush-free walking for miles. If you can learn to accept wet feet, travelling the wide gravel bars of braided rivers can prove to be the fastest routes and offer excellent visibility for bear safety and navigation.
Prior to crossing any river, ensure the security of dry firestarter, warm clothing, and, if camping, a sleeping bag. Insulation and the ability to start a fire could save your life if subjected to the cold water for long periods. Prepare yourself with the knowledge and skills on how to start a fire, especially when the fuel will most likely be wet or of low quality.
In conjunction with Alaska’s precipitation patterns and short seasons, water level can fluctuate drastically in a matter of hours. Plan in advance and watch for rain, which is the major cause of marked rising water levels. Glacial rivers and streams also rise at times of high temperatures and direct sunlight, as in afternoon and early evening hours. Snow and ice melt with the rising daytime temperature, causing water levels to rise significantly, while overnight and early in the morning water levels will be much lower, due to less melting of the snow and ice. Timing can be critical in safely crossing rivers.
Scouting
When scouting to cross a river, there are a variety of things to look for to ensure the safest possible route. The first thing most backcountry travellers will assess is the force of the water or the volume of water flowing at a given speed. This will be one of the most important aspects requiring proper and responsible assessment. The depth and/or the speed at which the water is flowing poses the greatest risk of injury or death, by causing a person to lose stability and be swept downriver.
Another component of rivers is water clarity, which will determine the visibility of the true depth of the water, as well as challenges and obstacles below the water’s surface. Deep holes, size of the substrate, and debris can all be hidden due to poor clarity, but are, fortunately, often easily observed by an experienced outdoorsperson by reading the surface. Consider the steepness of the banks and the thickness of vegetation, which can both impede entering and exiting the river. Choose a stretch of river that is relatively wide with many braided channels, and therefore shallow, to reduce the water’s force on your body. Analyze the currents and select a path that intersects the mellowest sections of the river, in as much of a straight line as possible.
Be cognizant of hazards that may lie downriver and determine a rescue plan and potential take out point. Never attempt to cross above rapids or falls. As in floating rivers, be aware for strainers and sweepers, which are even more dangerous should you be swept downriver.
On a larger scale, take into consideration the ambient temperature, weather conditions, and time of day in deciding when to cross rivers. Cold, cloudy, and windy conditions can make for an uncomfortable, and possibly dangerous, crossings and post-crossing experience. Water levels are typically lowest in the early morning hours and highest in late afternoon or early evening, after being subjected to the heat of the day. Remoteness of the crossing can also play a major role in determining what level of risk is acceptable for each person’s experience and skill level, as help, if something were to go wrong, could be days away.
Crossing
If you’ve scouted properly and planned accordingly, crossing should be an exciting and memorable experience, as well as a definitive component of any backcountry adventure.
Look at your route; if it consists of multiple river crossings or areas that could result in wet feet, leave your socks on and just walk across. If not, take your socks off and wear just your boots so your socks stay dry for the miles ahead. Either way, always wear boots or shoes to protect your feet from injury. This added layer will also keep your feet warmer and help increase stability over an uneven river bottom. Stopping and changing gear or clothes at every river crossing can be very time intensive and is often unnecessary, as the miles of hiking ahead will often dry out your clothing and gear. A common strategy among backcountry experts is to wear non-waterproof hiking shoes and let the breathability of their footwear aid in the drying process. If you try and keep your feet dry, you will most likely put yourself in a more dangerous situation by traversing algae-covered rocks and wet logs. When hiking off-trail, dry feet are an uncommon luxury.
There are many techniques for crossing rivers, both solo and with other travelers. Similar to hiking, trekking poles or a staff can greatly enhance stability by increasing the points of contact with the river bottom. Cross by standing abreast or in-line by joining arms or hanging on to each other's backpacks, with the strongest person on the upstream side. Take steps in unison and talk about each movement. Plan each step prior to moving. Take short, solid steps, and if you can retain your balance, feel ahead with your foot for the most secure place to step. Be cautious of eddies and deep drop-offs or holes created by the current. They are often sudden and have very loose, soft, unstable edges that can give way under little pressure. Eddies are recognized by water flowing against the current or upriver. As water rushes past a large object or enbankment, it causes a swirling backcurrent. These areas are strong enough to cause watercraft to flip over, as well as people to be held underwater.
If you encounter a soft bottom and the rocks seem to fall away in front of you, there is most likely a deep hole dead ahead. Retrace your footsteps and change your route to avoid the deep areas. Look at the surface of the water to understand what the water looks like in both shallow and deep areas to help you predict the depth in the future. Use everything you can as a learning experience.
If travelling in a group, cross together by standing in a line and put your hands on the shoulders of the person ahead. Stay together and help eachother by providing support during each step. Stay out of the fall line of others, as to not be victim of the bowling ball effect should someone slip and go downriver.
Anyone who has additional beta or techniques, please let me know.
I hope everyone can take something from this and that some will add to it, as well.
---
River crossings can be deceptively hazardous and Alaskan rivers are unlike those in the Lower 48.
The following are some tips for crossing rivers safely.
Preparation
Running from the highlands to the sea, all rivers in Alaska can pose challenges to inexperienced and skookum backcountry travellers, alike. Unlike most places in the Lower 48, when you leave the reaches of civilization, you will find yourself without the conveniences of trails, bridges, campsites, and outhouses. Travelers are forced to either select routes within drainages or to accept the risk of crossing bodies of water without the assistance of man-made bridges. Glaciers, groundwater, and precipitation feed each river’s hunger and cause dangerously cold water temperatures. Cold immersion, the initial cold shock your body feels and the tightening of muscles, can quickly lead to hypothermia. Be aware of hypothermia signs, shivering, loss of manual dexterity and coordination, slurred speech, mental impairment, and know how to properly treat its victims by rewarming their core body temperature. Even a very shallow, swiftly flowing body of water can pack enough force to endanger the unwary. If in doubt as to whether a river is safe to cross, find an alternate route.
However, river beds are often the highways of backcountry travel and the best route available. They can provide comparatively solid, stable, and brush-free walking for miles. If you can learn to accept wet feet, travelling the wide gravel bars of braided rivers can prove to be the fastest routes and offer excellent visibility for bear safety and navigation.
Prior to crossing any river, ensure the security of dry firestarter, warm clothing, and, if camping, a sleeping bag. Insulation and the ability to start a fire could save your life if subjected to the cold water for long periods. Prepare yourself with the knowledge and skills on how to start a fire, especially when the fuel will most likely be wet or of low quality.
In conjunction with Alaska’s precipitation patterns and short seasons, water level can fluctuate drastically in a matter of hours. Plan in advance and watch for rain, which is the major cause of marked rising water levels. Glacial rivers and streams also rise at times of high temperatures and direct sunlight, as in afternoon and early evening hours. Snow and ice melt with the rising daytime temperature, causing water levels to rise significantly, while overnight and early in the morning water levels will be much lower, due to less melting of the snow and ice. Timing can be critical in safely crossing rivers.
Scouting
When scouting to cross a river, there are a variety of things to look for to ensure the safest possible route. The first thing most backcountry travellers will assess is the force of the water or the volume of water flowing at a given speed. This will be one of the most important aspects requiring proper and responsible assessment. The depth and/or the speed at which the water is flowing poses the greatest risk of injury or death, by causing a person to lose stability and be swept downriver.
Another component of rivers is water clarity, which will determine the visibility of the true depth of the water, as well as challenges and obstacles below the water’s surface. Deep holes, size of the substrate, and debris can all be hidden due to poor clarity, but are, fortunately, often easily observed by an experienced outdoorsperson by reading the surface. Consider the steepness of the banks and the thickness of vegetation, which can both impede entering and exiting the river. Choose a stretch of river that is relatively wide with many braided channels, and therefore shallow, to reduce the water’s force on your body. Analyze the currents and select a path that intersects the mellowest sections of the river, in as much of a straight line as possible.
Be cognizant of hazards that may lie downriver and determine a rescue plan and potential take out point. Never attempt to cross above rapids or falls. As in floating rivers, be aware for strainers and sweepers, which are even more dangerous should you be swept downriver.
On a larger scale, take into consideration the ambient temperature, weather conditions, and time of day in deciding when to cross rivers. Cold, cloudy, and windy conditions can make for an uncomfortable, and possibly dangerous, crossings and post-crossing experience. Water levels are typically lowest in the early morning hours and highest in late afternoon or early evening, after being subjected to the heat of the day. Remoteness of the crossing can also play a major role in determining what level of risk is acceptable for each person’s experience and skill level, as help, if something were to go wrong, could be days away.
Crossing
If you’ve scouted properly and planned accordingly, crossing should be an exciting and memorable experience, as well as a definitive component of any backcountry adventure.
Look at your route; if it consists of multiple river crossings or areas that could result in wet feet, leave your socks on and just walk across. If not, take your socks off and wear just your boots so your socks stay dry for the miles ahead. Either way, always wear boots or shoes to protect your feet from injury. This added layer will also keep your feet warmer and help increase stability over an uneven river bottom. Stopping and changing gear or clothes at every river crossing can be very time intensive and is often unnecessary, as the miles of hiking ahead will often dry out your clothing and gear. A common strategy among backcountry experts is to wear non-waterproof hiking shoes and let the breathability of their footwear aid in the drying process. If you try and keep your feet dry, you will most likely put yourself in a more dangerous situation by traversing algae-covered rocks and wet logs. When hiking off-trail, dry feet are an uncommon luxury.
Before crossing, unbuckle the waistbelt and sternum strap in order to quickly remove the backpack in case of a fall or unintentional swim while crossing. The heavy backpack will not float, can get snagged on river obstacles and debris, cause extreme difficulty when attempting to swim, and potentially cause you to drown.
For the highly experienced & savvy backcountry traveler, you can increase your stability when in the water, by keeping your backpack buckled and using trekking poles or long sticks for additional points of contact between each step. The backpack will be more secure and will not sway side-to-side as it would if unbuckled and the poles can also be used to probe the bottom and check depth before you step ahead. In the event of a swim, the backpack can easily be unbuckled and shrugged off your shoulders.
If you encounter a soft bottom and the rocks seem to fall away in front of you, there is most likely a deep hole dead ahead. Retrace your footsteps and change your route to avoid the deep areas. Look at the surface of the water to understand what the water looks like in both shallow and deep areas to help you predict the depth in the future. Use everything you can as a learning experience.
If travelling in a group, cross together by standing in a line and put your hands on the shoulders of the person ahead. Stay together and help eachother by providing support during each step. Stay out of the fall line of others, as to not be victim of the bowling ball effect should someone slip and go downriver.
Most importantly, above all else, if you are not comfortable with crossing a river for any reason, DO NOT CROSS.
It could save your life.Anyone who has additional beta or techniques, please let me know.
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